Travels in Western Africa in 1845 & 1846, Volume 1 (of 2): comprising a journey from Whydah through the Kingdom of Dahomey to Adofoodia in the interiorDuncan, John
History
Travels in Western Africa in 1845 & 1846, Volume 1 (of 2): comprising a journey from Whydah through the Kingdom of Dahomey to Adofoodia in the interior
Duncan, John
Africa, West -- Description and travel; Benin -- Description and travel
At about twenty-seven miles by lagoon from Ahguay, I arrived at the
toll-house (a place where a barrier is fixed across the river), which
is here only sixty yards wide: this barrier also answers the purpose
of catching fish. It is constructed of stakes driven into the bed of
the river at short intervals; the space between the stakes is filled
up with small palm stems or strong reeds, leaving a space at intervals
for the fish to pass through, which leads them into a trap formed in a
similar manner to our eel-traps in England. During the night, lights of
palm-oil are burnt over the traps to attract the fish. My canoe being
much lighter than the other, containing Mr. Hutton and Mr. Hanson, I
was at the toll an hour before them.
During my stay a large travelling canoe arrived from Whydah, containing
several Spanish gentlemen with about twenty young slaves, male and
female. At this bar the canoes generally stop an hour to refresh the
canoemen, and pay the toll, which is always made in rum. During our
stay the Spaniards very kindly presented their canteen of spirits,
containing plenty of wine, brandy, Hollands, and rum, with a good
supply of cigars. I of course availed myself of their kindness, and
after a few compliments from each party they proceeded on their
journey. Soon after Mr. Hutton arrived, when, after remaining a short
time to refresh the canoemen, we again resumed our journey.
As the morning dawned, the appearance of the lagoon and the scenery
on its banks was really beautiful. But it wanted those delightful
villages, and clean cottages and gardens, which are to be seen on the
banks of the rivers in Europe, though every opportunity presents itself
if the natives were willing to work. Most of the huts on the banks of
the lagoon are of the most inferior description, and the people dirty
in their habits. When about seventeen miles from Whydah, each side of
the river presented a beautiful appearance, having a small tree or
shrub, not exceeding fifteen feet high, and resembling the mangrove,
with the branches drooping, and the top taking root in the bed of the
river, thus forming a beautiful colonnade. The leaves do not reach
lower than a yard from the highest rise of the water. At this place
the water is very salt.
I had often heard of oysters growing on trees, but could never
before give credit to such information. Here, however, I had ocular
demonstration of the fact; the roots of the trees (and as high on the
stems as the water rises) being covered with thousands of oysters, as
well as the bed of the river, for several miles. Some of them were of
enormous size, but they have not the delicious flavour of the Thames
oysters.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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