Travels in Western Africa in 1845 & 1846, Volume 2 (of 2): comprising a journey from Whydah through the Kingdom of Dahomey to Adofoodia in the interiorDuncan, John
History
Travels in Western Africa in 1845 & 1846, Volume 2 (of 2): comprising a journey from Whydah through the Kingdom of Dahomey to Adofoodia in the interior
Duncan, John
Africa, West -- Description and travel; Benin -- Description and travel
The road was now extremely rough and bad, and the path so narrow and
worn by the heavy rains washing away the soil and leaving the rough
iron-stone and large roots crossing at short distances, as to render
the march extremely fatiguing. Many of my poor fellows had their feet
sadly bruised and cut. Having had several attacks of fever, I found
myself considerably weaker within the last few days, and the wound on
my leg daily enlarged and got in a very bad state. Being compelled to
walk during the greater part of the latter end of this day, I felt more
fatigued than I had ever done during the whole of my long journey,
though many of them had been much longer. We crossed several glens and
brooks, with very steep rocky banks, which no English horse would have
even attempted, but so sure-footed are these Badagry horses, that the
little fellow scrambled over all without any serious accident. In one
instance, while climbing a smooth-surfaced granite rock, it slipped
from nearly the top to the bottom, where it crushed one of the holsters
and broke a girth, but it remained uninjured; however, it courageously
made a second attempt, in which it succeeded.
Owing to the road being so bad, we could make but slow progress; we
were consequently benighted, and from the cloudy atmosphere the night
was extremely dark. At last I became reckless, and blundered along with
little or no caution, over rocks, through water, and over large roots,
till about ten o’clock, when we came in sight of the lights of the town
of Jallakoo. We had only made twenty-four miles during the whole of
this long day. Jallakoo, like Savalu, was without walls or any fence.
After crossing the Savalu mountains, I was again in the original
kingdom of Dahomey, Jallakoo being the first Dahoman town in that
direction. We were met at the entrance in the principal market-place
by the old caboceer and his deputy who transacted all his official
affairs. The caboceer was apparently upwards of ninety years of age.
This venerable patriarch was determined to receive me with all the
usual formality, and I was consequently (although I felt completely
exhausted, as well as all my people) requested to dress myself in my
uniform, and so enter the town. Fortunately, my appointments (epaulets
and helmet) were tolerably clean, and had a very good effect by
torch-light. Their torches are made of a very peculiar sort of wood,
which when split into strips burns very brightly. These are sometimes
smeared with the shea-butter.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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