Travels Into Bokhara (Volume 1 of 3): Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea to Lahore, With Presents From the King of Great Britain; Performed Under the Orders of the Supreme Government of India, in the Years 1831, 1832, and 1833Burnes, Alexander, Sir
History
Travels Into Bokhara (Volume 1 of 3): Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea to Lahore, With Presents From the King of Great Britain; Performed Under the Orders of the Supreme Government of India, in the Years 1831, 1832, and 1833
Burnes, Alexander, Sir
Afghanistan -- Description and travel; Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Bukhoro (Uzbekistan) -- Description and travel; Burnes, Alexander, Sir, 1805-1841 -- Travel; Indus River Valley -- Description and travel
The only antiquity which we discovered near Peshawur was a “tope,” or
mound, about five miles distant, on the road to Cabool, and evidently
of the same era as those of Manikyala and Belur. It is in a very
decayed state, and the remains would not suggest any idea of the
design, had we not seen those in the Punjab. It was nearly a hundred
feet high, but the stone with which it had been faced had fallen
down or been removed. We procured no coins at it, and the natives
could not give any tradition farther than it was a “tope.” We also
heard of another building similar to this in the Khyber pass about
eighteen miles distant, which we could not visit, from the unsettled
state of the country where it is situated. It is in a perfect state
of preservation, and both loftier and larger than that of Manikyala.
I also heard of eight or ten towers of a like description towards the
country of the Kaffirs in Swat and Boonere. It seems very probable that
these buildings are the cemeteries of kings, since they are all built
with a chamber in the midst of the pile. They may, however, be Boodhist
buildings.
~Preparations for departure.~
A month had now elapsed since we arrived at Peshawur, and the rapid
approach of the hot weather admonished us that we need not much longer
fear the snows of Cabool and Hindoo Koosh. The thermometer, which
had stood in mid-day at 60° on our arrival, now rose to 87°; the
mulberries had ripened, and the snow had entirely disappeared from the
hither range; yet the winter had been very severe; and during our stay
at Peshawur hail-stones fell which were fully as large as a musket
ball. All was therefore bustle for our departure; and our movements
were accelerated by the arrival of a letter from Cabool, which begged
us to advance without delay. Yet it was no easy matter to bring the
chief to pronounce our leave, which was fixed for the 19th of April,
after much procrastination.
~Maître d’hôtel of the chief.~
Among the inmates of Sooltan Mahommed Khan’s house, it would be
unpardonable to omit the mention of his “Maître d’hôtel,” Sutar Khan,
a native of Cashmeer, a stout good-humoured man, who so long regaled
us with his pillaos and other savoury dishes. During the whole of
our stay we were entertained by the chief; and this person, who was
a merry-hearted good soul, with all the polish of his countrymen,
sought to gratify us in every way. Though he did not figure in any high
capacity, yet his sister was married to the chief, and his influence
was considerable. He was a tall portly man, with large black eyes,
which I shall ever remember, for they followed with delight every
morsel of his master’s which he saw us eat. His appearance showed that
he liked the good things of this life, and his disposition made him
anxious to share them with others. Such was Sutar Khan, the Cashmeeree
butler; he pressed us for some recipes to improve the gastronomic art,
but we had no cook to tutor him.
FOOTNOTES:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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