Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 1 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
On our way we joined many Foulahs loaded with salt, who were going
to Fouta; we afterwards met others carrying leather, wax, and rice;
they were going to Kakondy to buy salt. I was very much surprised
to see these poor Foulahs and Mandingoes, who were carrying nearly
a hundred weight on their heads, walk with the greatest rapidity,
and climb the Irnanké mountains with the utmost agility. They carry
a staff in their hands to assist them in supporting their burden,
which is packed in a long basket made of thin and flexible pieces
of wood; this basket is about three feet long, and one foot wide and
deep. When the goods are stowed in it, the lid is put down, and the
whole tightly secured with cords made of the bark of trees. If the
bearers are weary, they rest one end of the basket upon the branch
of a tree, and support the other with their staff; thus loaded,
they travel to the Kankan to sell their salt. We seated ourselves
under the shades of a superb bombax to take our slender repast,
consisting of boiled rice, and pistachio-nuts parched and pounded,
to which they added a little palm-oil. The six free Mandingoes and I
placed ourselves round the calabash containing our dinner, and each
in turn took a handful of rice; the slaves and my porter ate together,
and the women dined alone.
When they halt, as well as on the road, the women have all the labour;
the husband lies down on dry leaves or straw, which his slaves carry
for his accommodation. After this frugal repast, I lay down too for a
few moments. Several of the Foulahs, who had joined us on our road,
gave me some of the fruit of the _nédé_, which is very common in
this part of Africa, and very useful to travellers; it has a great
deal of nourishment in it, and helps to save the rice which is destined
for the purchase of salt.
About half-past two we were again on our way, proceeding to the
S.E. over the same kind of soil as in the morning. After travelling
about seven miles in this direction, we arrived near a deep ravine,
where we halted to pass the night. One of the slaves went to fetch
water, and our cook fell to work.
The Foulahs, who had been told that I was an Arab, shewed a sort
of veneration for me, and were never weary of looking at me and
pitying me: their extreme devotion renders them very charitable:
they came and sat by me, taking my legs upon their knees and rubbing
them to relieve my fatigue. “Thou must suffer sadly,” said they,
“because thou art not used to such a toilsome journey.” One of
them went and fetched some leaves to make me a bed. “Here!” said
he, “this is for thee; for thou canst not sleep upon the stones,
as we do.” Lying upon my bed of leaves, I felt as happy and as much
at my ease as if I had been in my own apartment.
The sky was serene. The heat of the day had been succeeded by a
refreshing breeze, and every thing was exceedingly pleasant.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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