Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 1 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
On the 23d of April, about five in the morning, we left
Coussotami. Proceeding eastward, we passed a dry ravine, surrounded by
trees, forming the most romantic groups. The aspect of the country was
generally pleasing. Advancing to the S.E., we arrived in a beautiful
valley covered with rich pasture, and next reached a deep ravine,
the passage of which we found exceedingly difficult, owing to many
large blocks of granite which we were obliged to climb over. This
ravine brought us to the foot of a mountain, five or six hundred feet
high, which we ascended by a circuitous route, and, after journeying
about four or five miles, we reached its summit. Here, being greatly
fatigued, we made a halt. About one in the afternoon we again started,
and proceeded about four miles in the direction of E.S.E. We now
reached a pretty little stream, whose limpid waters flow over a bed
of granite: its course is from south to N.N.E. The natives call it
Naufomou, and they informed me that it emptied itself into the Rio
Nuñez. We seated ourselves for a short time on the margin of this
stream, and ate some little cakes made of rice-flour, mixed with honey
and allspice, and baked in the sun. I thought them very good. The
Mandingo and Foulah traders always take care to provide themselves
with these cakes for their journeys. We next passed Dougué, a pretty
village, containing three or four hundred inhabitants, Foulahs and
Dhialonkés. It is situated in a plain of grey sand, which might be
rendered very fertile by cultivation. This plain is surrounded by high
hills, which afford fine pasturage. We stopped near a spring to pass
the night. The little village of Mirayé is situated on the declivity
of a high mountain, a mile S.E. of Dougué. Several Foulah shepherds
who were tending their flocks in the neighbourhood came to see us,
and sold us what they call _cagnan_: this is a sort of small loaves
or rolls, made of pistachio-nuts, baked and pounded, then mixed with
maize, and sweetened with honey. These loaves form a portion of their
provision when travelling. I observed a young Foulah who gazed at
me very stedfastly: he invited me to go with him to his camp, where
he said he would give me some milk. As I did not like to go alone,
he requested some of my fellow-travellers to accompany me, which two
of them readily consented to do. The young man walked before to shew
us the way, and he took the trouble to remove some large pieces of
stone which obstructed our path. On reaching his camp, which was not
far from the place of our halt, he spread out a bullock’s hide,
upon which he begged me to seat myself. The camp consisted of five
or six straw huts of a roundish form, and so exceedingly low that it
was necessary to stoop nearly double to get into them. The furniture
consisted of a few mats and sheep-skins, and calabashes to hold milk:
the bed was composed of four stakes fixed in the ground, supporting
long planks of wood, which were covered with a bullock’s hide. He
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