Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 1 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
A violent storm came on from the east. We rapidly descended by
a declivity, covered with large blocks of black granite, and red
sand mixed with stones of the same colour. We proceeded three miles
E.S.E. over a stony road. I observed some ferruginous rocks, and
numerous springs issuing from among them. The storm approached, and we
were overtaken by the rain, which fell in torrents. I used my umbrella,
but it was of little service. On every side the rain water came
pouring down the hills, and swelled the streams. We hurried forward
to some huts, situated near a little hill, and there we halted. This
hamlet is called Bâfila, a name probably derived from its vicinity
to the Bâ-fing (black river). We entered the hut of an old woman,
who cheerfully afforded us hospitality. She gazed earnestly at me,
and told me that she had never till then seen a Moor. Her little
dwelling was surrounded with cassavas, caribbee cabbages, giraumons,
pistachios, and gombos. I likewise observed many kinds of herbs, with
which I was unacquainted. As soon as the rain ceased, I went out to
walk round the garden. The sun was not visible, and the clouds which
had gathered upon the tops of the mountains, rendered the atmosphere
gloomy and damp. I saw, at some distance in the plain, a stream
running over a bed of pebbles, and producing a soft murmur. I might
almost have fancied myself in some romantic region of fairy-land. I
returned to the humble habitation of the old woman: she was gathering
herbs for the supper of her little family, which consisted of two lads,
who, she told me, were working in the fields. I went back to our hut
and roasted in the ashes some pieces of cassava, which the old woman
had given me. Shortly afterwards the two young negroes entered. They
had no clothing except a small piece of cloth fastened round their
middle. As soon as they learned that a Moor proceeding to Mecca had
become their guest, they came to me, and asked me how I was, in a very
kind tone. They invited me to their hut, which was much larger than
ours; and they fetched a large mat to cover me. The rain, which had
begun again, continued all night, accompanied with dreadful claps of
thunder and flashes of lightning, in quick succession. When I entered
their hut, the kind negroes seated me near the fire upon a sheep-skin,
and offered me a little sour milk, which probably they had intended
for their own supper; but I should have offended them by refusing
it. The mother cooked a little foigné, which grows in abundance in
these mountains, for the family’s supper. She placed a small pot
on the fire, by the side of a large one, for boiling the herbs which
she had gathered that evening. I recognized among them the calabash,
the giraumon, allspice, brette, sesamum, and many others;—to these
she added a little gombo. The foigné, when cooked, was placed in
calabashes to be eaten. I now perceived two little girls, whom I had
not before remarked. They ate their supper apart, and the old woman
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