Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 1 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
In the course of the day Ibrahim desired one of his wives to prepare
a warm bath for me. He lodged me in company with an old marabout of
Bondou, who had come to this part of the country to officiate as a
school-master. He taught the children of the village the Koran. The
method of teaching adopted among all the Musulmans of the interior
of Africa is to write on small boards verses of the Koran, which
are chanted by the scholars as they sit round a large fire. The
lesson is written by the master himself, until the scholars are
sufficiently advanced to write it themselves. At Cambaya this sort
of public school is very well managed: the master maintains the most
rigid discipline. The school is attended by girls as well as boys;
but the education of females is much neglected. It is thought enough
if they know the first verses of the Koran: boys, on the other hand,
are required to learn it all by heart, after which a more able master
is found for them, and he explains to them the most difficult passages
of the sacred book. The scholars, are, in some respects, the servants
of their master. They fetch wood and water for him, clean his hut,
cultivate his field, and gather in his harvest. The parents of the
children make the tutor some little presents of cloth, tabacco, and
seed to sow in his garden. The schoolmaster of Cambaya had a high
reputation for piety. He was poor and took his meals at the house of
the chief, who also sent for me to partake of all their repasts. In
the hut of the Bondouké (man of Bondou) I slept on the ground, upon
which was spread a mat which Ibrahim had given me. The old marabout
every night kindled a fire in his hut, the smoke of which I found
exceedingly unpleasant. His religious zeal led him to rouse me every
morning at three o’clock, to go to the mosque and return thanks to
God; for the old man exercised the two-fold functions of priest and
schoolmaster. The Mandingoes were far from being so very devout. They
said their prayers in their huts at five or six o’clock. We were
often the only persons in the mosque, though the old man used every
endeavour to summon the faithful. He complained that the Mandingoes
were not sufficiently attentive to prayer. On returning to our hut,
I lay down on my mat to rest; but my companion, instead of following
my example, spent the rest of the morning at his prayers. The good old
man was very kind to me. Ibrahim was not the only person who invited
him to eat with him. Many others did the same, and thus, though
the old man was poor, he lived very well. I found myself extremely
comfortable in the village. The people had become accustomed to my
person, and my assiduity in fulfilling my religious duties, banished
every suspicion of me. There was, however, one man who persisted in
asserting that I was a white. He pretended to speak Arabic, of which
he only knew a few words, and those he pronounced so ill that it
was with difficulty I could understand him. This vexed me a little,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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