Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 1 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
On reaching our lodging, I was visited by many of the old men, who had
seen me pass when they were assembled; some of them gave me colats and
a fowl for supper; these negroes seemed to me as gentle and humane
as the Foulahs of Wassoulo, whom they resemble extremely in their
countenances, their apparel, their customs and habits of life. They
were never weary of looking at me, and said that they had never seen a
white man; for the Moors of this country do not travel. Part of the
evening was stormy, which at first prevented the inhabitants from
seeing me; but they made themselves amends after the rain was over,
crowding round me till eight o’clock in the evening with the same
eagerness and curiosity; they also lighted straw, and paid me the
same compliments as the people of Yonmouso.
On the 26th of July, at seven in the morning, we gave a present to
our host and prepared to set off. I perceived that the village was
surrounded by a wall, and that the inhabitants cultivated tobacco round
their houses, for their own use. I was followed by a crowd for about
half an hour; we crossed an inundated plain of indigo, which grows
spontaneously, and afterwards passed over a very tottering bridge;
here the villagers left us. I saw some cultivated land, but not in such
good order as what I had left behind me. The husbandmen bring their
fowls with them into the fields, to eat up the insects. We continued
our course to the S.E.; and travelled eleven miles briskly enough;
the country around us was level, and better wooded than what we had
crossed for the last few days. We arrived at Nougouda a walled village,
inhabited by Bambaras; and stayed there some time to change porters;
we also bought a little milk and dégué to refresh ourselves. We then
continued for five miles more to the south; at a considerable distance
to the S.W. ¼ S. of our route, I saw three very high mountains with
flattened peaks; we travelled two miles to the S.S.E. over a woody
country, covered with ferruginous stones, and not cultivated. About
four in the afternoon, we reached Tangouroman, a walled village which
contains about three or four hundred Bambara inhabitants; we were
nearly tired out, for we had travelled at a great rate, because my
guide wished to reach his own home before night. The village is shaded
by fine bombaces and baobabs. The poor inhabitants were unable to
provide us with a fowl, or even with milk, and they found it difficult
to give us a supper; they brought us a dish of foigné, with a sauce
of herbs, which they had prepared for themselves, and supped on a
bit of boiled yam; after which frugal repast, they fell to dancing
merrily and kept it up all night. I remarked in our host’s court,
many little bundles of straw supported upon stakes or large stones,
to keep it from the damp, which is excessive in this country; in these
magazines they store their provision of rice, millet, pistachio-nuts,
and yams, which are never plundered. I have not seen a single beggar
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 1 (of 2) — John Shaqi
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