Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 1 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
As soon as I made my appearance, I was here, as in the other camps,
the object of universal curiosity; all its inmates collected about
me, and I was compelled to repeat prayers for great part of the
evening. Some of the women inquired if I would accept a share of their
bed; and on my replying in the affirmative, they ran off with bursts
of laughter. One of them wished to examine whether I had undergone
the rite prescribed by the law of their prophet, but I did not think
proper to satisfy her. The site of this camp was called Lam Khaté. I
had nothing but milk given me for my supper, and I was not allowed
to add sangleh to it, as in the camp of the king. In the night,
there was a hurricane from the east, which overthrew the tents,
and prevented us from sleeping.
On the 9th of October, the guide who had been sent with me by
Hamet-Dou, refused to go any further; I employed all the means in my
power to induce him, but in vain; he chose to return to his master. I
must stop at Lam Khaté to give a description of the royal camp.
This camp comprises the tribe of Oulad-Sidy, otherwise called the
_lakariches_, or princes; and from this tribe spring all the kings of
the Braknas. In some circumstances, the camp is divided into two or
three parts, all retaining the original name, but distinguished also by
the name of the chief who commands them. The camp of Hamet-Dou probably
contained at the time of my visit about one hundred tents, and four or
five hundred inhabitants. When the king receives his customary tribute,
his camp is filled with strangers, who come to ask for presents. I
have seen some of these gentry who had staid for three months in the
hope of at last obtaining ten ells of Guinea cloth, worth, perhaps,
about eight shillings. These parasites establish themselves in the
first tent where they can procure lodging, and twice a day, morning
and night, they sally forth, with their beads in one hand, and a tin
can in the other, to beg milk from door to door. In the day time they
walk about the camp, two and two, or assemble in tents to converse;
and here they commonly fall asleep, while they are ridding each other
of the vermin with which they are infested. I was a great source of
amusement to them, and when they came about me, they were sure to pass
a part of the day in questioning and tormenting me. I suffered most
from the _hassanes_,[20] or warriors; fanatical, idle, and ignorant
they were never contented but when they annoyed me, and they added to
all their other insults an insupportable ironical laugh. They were
continually asking me whether I meant to be circumcised. I replied,
that I had referred the affair to my marabout, who, to my great
satisfaction, declared that the operation was unnecessary, that it
was dangerous at my age, and that I could go to heaven without it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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