Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 1 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
On the 21st, I suffered much from the colic. One of my marabout’s
sons repeated prayers, and then spat on my stomach, assuring me
that it was an excellent remedy; he did the same to the milk which I
was to drink, and I let him have his own way, disgusting as it was,
rather than contradict his opinions.
In the evening, a caravan on its way to Fouta, to exchange salt for
millet, stopped at our camp, and took up its quarters in the midst
of us; mats were brought to serve as beds for the travellers. At ten
o’clock at night, milk was brought to the marabout, from all sides,
and calabashes full of sangleh and milk, which were distributed among
the _ziafis_, or travellers.
When a caravan is small, only a part of the camp contributes to the
supply of its wants, and the inhabitants take their turns to do so:
if it is large, every body furnishes his quota. If it arrives in
the day time, the chief of the camp, when he goes to the mosque to
prayer, makes a collection for the ziafis, and each person sends a
measure or two of grain according to the number of the strangers. A
slave is appointed to pound the corn and prepare the sangleh. When a
traveller arrives alone, he goes to any tent he pleases, and the owner
supplies him without having recourse to his neighbours. As strangers
always prefer the best-looking tents, the same tent is often visited
five or six days in succession. Travellers frequently stay some time
in the camp; for the first three days they are fed as a matter of
right, after which the master of the tent is at liberty to refuse
them provisions. The hassanes when they travel are always unwelcome
guests, on account of the arbitrary manner in which they exact what
they want. If they are not waited upon as quickly as they expect,
they clamour and threaten, and call their host an infidel—the most
opprobrious epithet that can be bestowed on a marabout. If a stranger
arrives amongst them, he is ill-treated, and ill-fed; hence their
camps are always avoided, and the burden of entertaining travellers
devolves in consequence upon the marabouts.
The Moors, as has just been observed, afford one another hospitality,
but they do not deserve to be called hospitable, for nothing annoys
them so much as the sight of strangers. They receive them not out of
humanity but from fear, particularly when they happen to be hassanes,
who would not fail to plunder, if they were not treated as they
liked. They seldom afford assistance to travelling negroes; if any
such pass through a camp, they beg morning and night when the cows
are milked for a draught, going about with a jotala in their hand,
and receiving so little, that they are obliged to traverse two or
three camps before they obtain sufficient for a meal.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account