Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
This night seemed cooler than those which had preceded it: my rest
was disturbed by the appearance of a serpent, which suddenly awoke
me, and had nearly reached my head when I perceived it. I rose in
haste; the reptile was alarmed by the noise I made, and returned
immediately to its hole, which was not far distant: this serpent was
five feet and a half long, and as thick as the thigh of a boy twelve
years old. The idea of so unpleasant a neighbour banished sleep for
the remainder of the night: my travelling companions also experienced
similar visits, and appeared no less dismayed by them than myself.
The whole of the 6th was employed in watering our camels; we procured
for them stalks of _hedysarum-alhagi_, and branches of the tamarisk,
which grows on the plain at some distance from the wells: these
were quickly devoured. This night we lay down as on the preceding,
and I was again annoyed with the sight of enormous serpents.
At four o’clock in the morning of the 7th, we directed our
course to the N. N. E., among the chain of sand-hills called Helk;
but these are not by much so high as those we had crossed the day
before. Sidi-Aly, whom I questioned on the subject, and who at
times vouchsafed an answer, assured me that in none of his former
travels in the Soudan had he seen such lofty sand-hills; his route
had always been more northerly.
As our road was better than that of the preceding day, we travelled
at least two miles an hour. About half past eleven we halted at
the foot of the chain, on a somewhat hilly plain of grey gravel,
the finest I had yet seen.
On the 8th, we set out at four in the morning, taking a northerly
direction, over a sandy and tolerably level soil. Near noon we
halted in a plain of firm ground, covered with sharp flints as flat
as slate, and mixed with small gravel; this plain is surrounded
by gently swelling downs. I longed to emerge from these frightful
deserts, where the only indications of animated nature were the
distressing east wind, and some light-footed antelopes, which swept
across them with the rapidity of an arrow. I saw in several places
skeletons of these animals, dried up by the burning sun; they had
undoubtedly died of thirst.
On the 9th, at about one in the morning, we pursued our journey
northwards; the soil was covered with black gravel, and studded
with pointed rocks of the same colour. A little before eleven we
halted at the wells of Amoul-Taf, situated among rocks of grey
granite; it was necessary to open them; they are only four feet
deep, the water sweet, but not plentiful; tamarisks flourish in the
neighbourhood. We surrounded these wells with straw to prevent the
sand from falling in.
The camels were but half watered, and we filled our leathern bags
in preparation for departure.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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