Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
On the 22nd, at two o’clock in the morning, we set off in a N.
N. E. direction; the soil still the same, and the mountains extending
on both sides of our route. About ten in the forenoon we halted at
the wells of Nyéla, (or Ain-Yela) the water of which is abundant
and good; they are situated in a very stony ravine, and so shallow
that the water is taken up by hand. The heat was extreme, and our
only shelter some of the _zizyphus lotus_.
At a short distance south of the wells is seen a high mountain
of granite, in the crevices of which there are a few patches of
verdure: I observed on its declevity a flock of sheep, which appeared
no larger than young lambs. This mountain is nearly pointed, and
rises to the height of one hundred and fifty or two hundred fathoms
above the level of a very stony soil. When my fellow-travellers had
retired to rest for the night I went to the wells with a satala,
and washed myself in the cold water, which afforded me much comfort;
returning afterwards to my companions and lying down on the ground,
I slept soundly till three o’clock in the morning.
On the 23rd, I was still half asleep when we set out, proceeding
for the first half hour in a N. N. E. direction; we afterwards
turned to the N. E., till six in the morning, and, quitting the
barren mountains, descended into a plain of very hard grey sand,
susceptible of cultivation.
From this plain we beheld the beautiful and majestic palm-trees of
the country of Tafilet, an enchanting prospect and one which raised
my spirits by announcing the speedy alleviation of my sufferings. We
passed through fields, separated, some by earth walls, and others
by narrow ditches. The country was beautiful, but parched up by
the scorching heat of the sun, which left no other verdure than
the evergreen leaves of the palm. About nine in the morning we
reached Ghourland, and were presently surrounded by a crowd of
children, attracted by curiosity. We encamped under the shade of the
palm-trees, at the gates of the town. When the arrival of our caravan
from the Soudan was reported, numbers of dirty and ill-clad Moors
and Jews came to meet us, and soon surrounded the baggage: many of
my companions warned me to be careful of my leathern bag and of my
pagnes, or they would be stolen, even off my back; they advised me
not to go too far from the village, because there were thieves, who,
in the supposition that I had brought much gold from the Soudan,
might attack me. The Moorish merchants who came for their goods
made a single mule carry the burden of a camel. I took mine upon my
shoulder and followed my guide to the house of old Haggi-Le-Mekke,
the chief of Ghourland. I passed in my way through several long and
narrow streets, and arrived at the house of my new host. An inner
court formed the entrance both to the chambers and magazines. Part of
this court was covered by a shed, supported by trunks of palm-trees,
in the middle of which was a sort of sky-light. A staircase of
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