Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
Towards eleven at night, several large calabashes full of couscous,
with the flesh of a kid killed for the purpose, were brought to
us from the village; the bearers carried them on their heads, and
were lighted by a taper. No sooner had these messes arrived than the
descendants of Mahomet feasted voraciously, and gave what remained
to the Moors of their train: care was taken to awaken all who were
or pretended to be asleep. I was at the moment lying on the sand
beside the baggage; and as no one seemed to pay any attention to me,
I patiently resigned myself to the loss of my supper, although I
had eaten nothing the whole day but some dates, given to me by my
host at parting. At length a Moor from the village, walking about
with his taper in his hand, discovered me, and asking who I was, led
me to an immense dish of couscous, round which several Moors were
assembled, and desired me to help myself. The Moor who presided
at the repast placed some scraps of meat upon an old mule-cloth,
and, when we had eaten the couscous, he gave to each a little bit
of the reserved meat, tearing it with his dirty fingers.
On the 3rd of August, at half-past five in the morning, we again
proceeded northward, through plantations entirely surrounded
with earth walls, over which I perceived beautiful fruit trees,
such as pears, figs, apricots, vines, and some rose bushes. These
charming plains though rather deficient in moisture, often renewed
the delightful remembrance of our European gardens. The sterility
of the Sahara was still so impressed upon my imagination, that the
plains of Tafilet appeared by comparison a terrestrial paradise.
About ten in the morning we passed Tanneyara, a little village,
a mile to the east of our road, shaded by immense numbers of
date-trees. Here our caravan was retarded by a troop of Arabs,
to whom we were obliged, whether we would or not, to pay the
passage-dues. This prank occasioned a great deal of confusion;
the two parties had nearly come to blows; but fortunately no
bad consequences ensued: the merchants gave a few dragmes, and
the Arabs left us to continue our route, which lay over a dry and
gravelly soil. The gently swelling hills which rose on either hand
were apparently composed of red sand, and bore no vegetation: the
heat was extreme, and we had no water to moisten our parched lips.
At one in the afternoon we reached Marca, a large village enclosed
by a wall twelve or fourteen feet high, and there halted.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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