Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
On the 9th, we set out at five in the morning, directing our route
to the north; about seven we turned to the W. N. W. ascending hills
from one hundred to one hundred and twenty-five feet above the
surface of the plain. In every direction similar eminences meet
the eye, all exhibiting, with the exception of a few cork-trees,
complete sterility. Exhausted with fatigue, I feared that it
would be impossible to continue my journey; my limbs bent under
me, and I was compelled to sit down continually; my courage was
ready to forsake me: this ascent was indeed a terrible task for my
enfeebled powers. By the blessing of God we attained the summit
by nine o’clock; and thence descended into an extensive and
beautiful plain, surrounded by high lands, which were mostly barren
of vegetation. Four times in the course of the day our caravan
was stopped by the Arabs, who had encamped by the road-side, to
obtain payment of the passage dues, which was made in dates, and
bread baked a second time in the oven; I was told that they acted
under the sultan’s orders. Some Berbers as we passed spread a
pagne beside the road, that a few dates might be thrown to them:
this fruit is scarce and dear in this part of the country; and
some of them brought us water in exchange. About three o’clock we
arrived at L-Guim, a small Moorish village, where some cultivation is
visible and some forage may be obtained, but the general aspect of
the country is sterile and dry; not a single tree is to be seen. I
supped upon some pieces of barley bread, baked a second time, and
which I steeped in a little water. This bread Sidi-Moula-Sitec had
sent me as a present, the evening before, by one of his servants.
After this repast I lay down near a field of maize, making my pillow
upon a ridge between its furrows.
At five in the morning of the 10th, we set out again, our route
lying W. N. W.; at seven we turned to the north through defiles of
arid and stony mountains; at ten to the N. N. W. The landscape,
interspersed with lofty eminences, has a most dreary appearance;
on some of them only grows a quantity of box to the height of about
eighteen inches, the leaves of which were dry and yellow. In the
level parts we saw some Arab tents from which at our approach the
children issued to beg dates. About three P. M. we reached Guigo,
a small Berber village: its environs are naked, without any trace
of cultivation, and the wells are so distant, that it is not easy
to procure water without paying in dates, of which I had no more,
and was obliged to have recourse to charity for a draught; I applied
to several Moors, who all repulsed me like a dog, and bade me slake
my thirst at the fountain.
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