Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
I then returned to the fandac, leaving with the consular agent
ten shillings, which he refused to change; he gave me however on
account, three dragmes (twenty four sous) for the supply of my most
urgent wants during the following days. I made my guide purchase a
piece of roasted mutton and two small loaves, which I divided with
him; resolving however that this should be my last repast in his
company: not that he had been deficient in complaisance to me, but,
convinced that I must be extremely desirous of an interview with
the sultan his master, he was perpetually endeavouring to pursuade
me to solicit one. I had exhausted all my pretences for delaying
this step; and had sufficient reason to beware of presenting myself
before the African monarch, who, more suspicious than his subjects,
would in all probability have proved more clear-sighted.
I quitted the fandac therefore, and passed the day at the corner of
a street; where I hoped to spend the night with equal tranquillity,
and lying down enveloped myself in my large wrapper. I was invoking
sleep, the friend of the unfortunate, when a dozen dogs began to
bark furiously at me, and I should certainly have fallen a prey to
these animals, had I not been promptly assisted by one of those men,
who are posted in the streets at night expressly to rescue passengers
from their attacks. This man inquired who I was; “I am an Arab,
a stranger here,” replied I, “on my return to Alexandria my
native country.” Upon this he placed me in a small recess near
which he slept himself; arming me with a strong bamboo cane to drive
away the dogs, if they should trouble me again; a very judicious
precaution, for these creatures, apparently conscious that I was a
stranger, never ceased throughout the night annoying me with their
menacing cries. I would gladly have slept at a fandac, but for the
expense of three paras per night, and the risk of insults from the
muleteers. Consulting my poverty, and uncertain when I should be
able to obtain assistance from the French Consul, I determined
to be as saving as possible and to sleep under the canopy of
heaven. Henceforth, I sought repose in a cemetery, situated to the
west of the town on the sea-shore, where, peacefully extended at the
foot of a mausoleum, I was neither tormented by men nor dogs. During
the day I remained at the corners of the streets, sometimes repairing
to the mosques to take my melancholy meals, consisting of a little
bread and a bunch of grapes, to which I occasionally ventured to add
from my scanty resources a small piece of fried fish. As the wells
of Rabat are brackish, I was obliged to beg water from the Moors who
seldom refused me. Such was the kind of life which I led, during the
whole of my residence at Rabat, while waiting for an opportunity to
proceed to Tangier to the French Consul. I now and then saw Ismael,
the Jew agent of the consulate, who gave me some small coins of
the country, on the security of the ten shillings with which I had
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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