Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
On his arrival at Timbuctoo, Major Laing healed his wounds by the aid
of an ointment which he brought with him from England. His recovery
was slow; but he was made very comfortable, owing to the letters
of recommendation which he had brought from Tripoli, and especially
to the attention of his landlord, a Tripolitan, to whom he had been
directed. The house of this Moor was near that in which I lodged at
Timbuctoo. I had frequent opportunities of seeing him. He appeared
to me a man full of kindly feelings. Many a time he has given me
dates, from mere charity, and the day before I left he made me a
present of a pair of blue cotton trowsers, to wear on my journey.
He told me that the major had been recommended by a Tripolitan
house to an old Moor, who, not having convenience to lodge him,
transferred him to his hospitality. Laing, he added, never laid aside
his European dress, and used to give out that he had been sent by
his master the King of England, for the purpose of making himself
acquainted with Timbuctoo and the wonders it contains.[14] It would
appear that the traveller had openly taken a plan of Timbuctoo,
for the same Moor told me in his simple way that _he had written
down every thing in it_.
Other Moors, whom I questioned respecting Laing, merely told me that
the major ate little, and that he lived entirely on bread, eggs,
and poultry. I moreover learned that he was tormented to say that
there is but one God and that Mahomet is his prophet; but he always
stopped at the words: “There is but one God” They then called
him cafir, and infidel, but, without ill treating him, left him
free to think and pray in his own way. Sidi-Abdallahi, whom I often
questioned as to whether the major had been insulted during his stay
at Timbuctoo, always replied in the negative; shaking his head, to
give me to understand, that they would have been sorry to annoy him.
This toleration may be accounted for by the fact, that the Moors
who reside at Timbuctoo come from Tripoli, Algiers, and Morocco,
and that, being in the habit of seeing christians in their own
countries, they are less liable to be offended at their worship and
their manners. For instance, Sidi-Abdallahi, who came from Tatta,
a town near Cape Mogador, was not inimical to the christians. Thus
it may easily be conceived that the major was free to inspect every
part of the town and even to enter the mosques.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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