Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)Caillié, René
History
Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 2 (of 2)
Caillié, René
Sahara -- Description and travel; Sudan (Region) -- Description and travel
At eleven in the morning we halted. The heat was insupportable,
and we seated ourselves beside some unhealthy looking mimosas, over
which we extended our wrappers, for these shrubs being destitute of
leaves afforded no shade of themselves. Under our tents thus formed,
we had distributed to us a calabash of water, which was rendered
tepid by the east wind. According to our custom, we threw into the
water some handfuls of dokhnou. Finally, to relieve ourselves from
every immediate care, we sent a slave to watch our camels, which
were endeavouring to refresh themselves by browsing on some withered
herbage. We then lay down to sleep on the sand, which at this place
was covered with small stones. This was not done from indolence,
but from consideration; for it was proper to wait for night to take
advantage of the coolness, when we might travel more at our ease than
during the day, in which the calms were sometimes more insupportable
than the burning sun. During these calms I could not close my eyes,
while the Moors slept soundly. The same kind of calm often prevails
during the night, but then there is some compensation in the absence
of the sun. In the inhabited countries, the night, or rather the
latter part of the night, is always the most agreeable portion of
the twenty-four hours. It is at day-break that the flowers exhale
all their perfumes: the air is then gently agitated, and the birds
commence their songs. Recollections, at once pleasing and painful,
turned my thoughts to the south. In the midst of this frightful
desert could I fail to regret the land which nature has embellished?
The caravans which traverse the desert are under no absolute
commander; every one manages his camels as he pleases, whether he
has many or few; some have fifteen, others six or ten; and there
are individuals who possess not more than three; I have even seen
some with only two, but these were very poor. Such persons join
richer travellers and take care of their camels; in return, they
are supplied with provisions and water during the journey.
The Moors always lay out the profits of their journeys in the
purchase of camels, and none of them travel to Timbuctoo without
possessing at least one. The camels do not advance in files, as
they would do in our roads lined by hedges and cultivated lands. On
the contrary they move in all directions, in groupes, or single,
but in this journey their route is always between N. N. E. and N.
N. W. Those which belong to one master keep together, and do not
mix with strange camels; and I have seen as many as fifty grouped
together in this way. A camel’s load is five hundred pounds,
and the carriage from Timbuctoo to Tafilet costs ten or twelve gold
mitkhals,[15] which are paid in advance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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