Travels through the South of France and the Interior of Provinces of Provence and Languedoc in the Years 1807 and 1808Pinkney, lieutenant-colonel (Ninian)
History
Travels through the South of France and the Interior of Provinces of Provence and Languedoc in the Years 1807 and 1808
Pinkney, lieutenant-colonel (Ninian)
France -- Description and travel
The road to Orgon, where we dined, presented us with a great variety of
scenery, though the surface was rather level. All the country was
covered with olive and mulberry trees, and innumerable fruit-trees grew
up wild in the fields, as likewise flowering shrubs in the hedges. The
climate of this part of France is so delightful, that every thing here
grows spontaneously which is raised only by the most laborious exertions
in northern countries. The cottages which we passed on the road were
picturesque to a degree: they were usually thatched, and vines or
barberry trees, or honey-suckles, entirely enveloped the walls or
casements. The peasantry, moreover, though without stockings, appeared
happy; the women were singing, and the men, in the intervals of their
work, playing with true French frivolity. We saw many women working in
the fields: the French women are invariably industrious and active. It
may be supposed that this labour and exposure to a southern sun is not
very favourable to beauty. Accordingly, we saw few good-looking damsels,
but many with good shapes and good eyes. How is it, that the French, so
generally gallant, can suffer their women to take the fork and hoe, and
work so laboriously in the fields?
Orgon had nothing which merits even mention; I believe, however, it was
well known to the ancients, and is mentioned in some of the Latin
itineraries. A convent, very picturesquely situated, is now converted
into a manufacturing establishment. The town is surrounded by
chalk-hills and quarries, from which is dug a free-stone, of the most
delicate white. The town, on the whole, had an air of rusticity and
recluseness which might have delighted a romantic imagination.
Between Orgon and St. Canat we travelled in a road occasionally bordered
by almond trees. The country on each side was rather barren, but being
an intermixture of rock and plain and being moreover new to us, it did
not appear tedious or uninteresting. We passed several houses of the
better sort, some in ruins, others evidently inhabited by a class of
people for whom they were not intended. This is one of the effects of
the Revolution. Where the proprietor emigrated, or was assassinated, the
nearest tenant moved into the mansion-house, and if he distinguished
himself by a violent and patriotic jacobinism, his possession, for a
mere trifle to the national fund, was converted into a right. In this
manner innumerable low ruffians have obtained the estates and houses of
their lords; but, faithful to their old habits and early origin, they
abuse only what they possess; live in the stables, and convert the
castle into a barn, a granary, a brew-house, a manufactory, or sometimes
dilapidate it brick by brick, as their convenience may require.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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