Travels through the South of France and the Interior of Provinces of Provence and Languedoc in the Years 1807 and 1808Pinkney, lieutenant-colonel (Ninian)
History
Travels through the South of France and the Interior of Provinces of Provence and Languedoc in the Years 1807 and 1808
Pinkney, lieutenant-colonel (Ninian)
France -- Description and travel
The cathedral of Aix is an immense edifice; the architecture is the
oldest Gothic, and has all the strength, the substance, and I was going
to add, all the tastelessness which characterizes that Order. The front
is ornamented with figures of saints, prophets, and angels, grouped
together in a manner the most absurd, and executed as if by the hands of
a working bricklayer. The grand portal, however is very striking. On the
side of the great altar is the magnificent tomb of the Counts of
Provence; the figures here, however, are as ridiculous as the style
itself is grand. The Gothic architects had better ideas of proportion
than of delicacy or beauty; they seldom err on the former point, whilst
their execution in the latter is contemptible in the extreme. Our
Saviour, and the Virgin Mary, have always enough to do on every tomb in
France; they are invariably introduced together, sometimes in a manner
and with circumstances, which really shock any one of common piety.
Several pictures, and some ancient jewellery, which have survived the
Revolution, are still shewn to all strangers: amongst them is a golden
rose, which Pope Innocent the Fourth gave to one of the Counts of
Provence six hundred years since.
There are two or three other churches and convents, but which have
suffered so much by the execrable Revolution, as to have little left
that is worthy of remark. The piety of the inhabitants of Aix, however,
saved the greater part of the pictures and jewellery; and with still
more piety, have returned them to the churches.
The promenade, or public walk, equals, if not excells, any thing of the
kind in Europe--it consists of three alleys, shaded by four rows of most
noble elms, in the middle of a wide street, the houses on each side
being on the most magnificent scale, and inhabited by the first people
of the city and province. There were several parties walking there even
at the early hour in the morning when we saw it, and I understood upon
enquiry, that in the evening it is exceedingly thronged both with
walkers and carriages.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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