Travels through the South of France and the Interior of Provinces of Provence and Languedoc in the Years 1807 and 1808Pinkney, lieutenant-colonel (Ninian)
History
Travels through the South of France and the Interior of Provinces of Provence and Languedoc in the Years 1807 and 1808
Pinkney, lieutenant-colonel (Ninian)
France -- Description and travel
We visited the cathedral, which, with more decency than in England, is
open at all hours of the day, and is not exhibited for money. There
might be some excuse for this, where any of the subjects of exhibition
are portable, and such as might be carried away. But who would feel any
disposition to pilfer the wig of Sir Cloudesley Shovel, or the hat of
General Monk, in Westminster Abbey? Why, therefore, is not this
disgraceful practice thrown aside? Why is a nation converted into a
puppet-show? The English Minister would doubtless be ashamed to bring
the returns of these exhibitions amongst the ways and means of the year;
yet it is effectually the same to suffer these taxes to be taken as the
prices for seeing the public buildings of the nation. There is nothing
of this kind in America, or in any other kingdom in the world. The
cathedral of Tours has nothing to distinguish it except its antiquity,
two beautiful towers, and a library of most valuable manuscripts.
Amongst these there is a copy of the Pentateuch, written in the
alphabet of the country, upwards of eleven hundred years ago. There is
likewise a copy of the four Evangelists, written in Saxon letters, in
the beginning of the fifth century, about fifty years after Constantine
declared Christianity to be the religion of the Roman Empire. Next to
the cathedral, St. Martin's church is usually shewn to strangers. It is
the largest church in France, but very dark, damp, and built in a very
bad taste. The tomb of St. Martin, whom tradition reports to be buried
here, is behind the great Altar; it is of black marble, and though very
simple, is very striking. The ancient kings of France used to come to
this tomb previous to any of their important expeditions, and after
having made the usual prayers of intercession used to take away the
mantle of the Saint as the banner under which they were to fight: this
mantle still remains.
The quay is broad, brisk, and clean. Even the French merchants seem
never to lose sight of the union of pleasure and profit: their quays are
terraces, and serve them as well for promenades as for business. One
reason, however, for the superiority of the French over the English
quays, may be, that the French Government consider these quays as public
and national works, and therefore puts them, I believe, under the same
system of management as the roads. What Government does, and does with
attention, will be done well, because Government consults for the
general good; whilst individual proprietors are only actuated by their
own immediate interest. If the wharfs and quays on the Thames had been
laid out by the English Government, would they have so totally defaced
and degraded the banks of that noble river?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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