Travels through the South of France and the Interior of Provinces of Provence and Languedoc in the Years 1807 and 1808Pinkney, lieutenant-colonel (Ninian)
History
Travels through the South of France and the Interior of Provinces of Provence and Languedoc in the Years 1807 and 1808
Pinkney, lieutenant-colonel (Ninian)
France -- Description and travel
shines on us the whole year round; our rains are short, and all confined
to their season; we know nothing of the northern damps: a piece of
muslin or fine linen hung in one of those caves for six months, would be
dry and unsullied when removed. Those caves, moreover, bad as they are,
belong to their inhabitants; the property is their own. Can your
peasantry say the same? Believe me, Monsieur, there are many very happy,
aye and very lovely faces, under those turf dwellings."
We reached Amboise in good time, and as we intended leaving it on the
following morning, Mr. Younge and myself walked over the town, in the
interval between dinner and tea. The ladies reserved themselves for the
promenade, which in the provincial towns usually begins at seven, and
continues till nine.
Amboise, like all the towns on the Loire, is very pleasantly situated,
but has nothing in its structure to recommend it to particular notice.
It consists of two streets and a chateau. Before the Revolution it was
very singularly divided into two parishes and two churches: all
gentlemen, all military officers, all landed proprietors who possessed
honorary fiefs, and all strangers who were temporary residents, were
considered as belonging to one parish, and the people and the bourgeois
were attached to the other. The Revolution has annihilated these absurd
distinctions, and every one now belongs to the parish in which he
resides, or has property.
We visited the chateau, or castle, which is indeed well worthy of the
particular attention of travellers. It is built upon a lofty and craggy
rock, and overhangs the Loire, which flows at the bottom; the side on
the Loire is perpendicular, and of great height, so as to render it
almost inaccessible. This vast structure was not all the work of one
time, or of one author. The present castle was built upon the ruins of
one which was destroyed by the Normans in the year 882, but having gone
into decay, was repaired and enlarged by Francis the First and Charles
the Eighth. The latter prince was born in this castle, and during his
whole reign it was the constant summer residence of the court. The most
remarkable part of this structure is what is called the oratory of Louis
the Wicked; it is at a great depth beneath the foundation of the castle,
and the descent to it is by spiral or well-stairs. It is literally
nothing more than a dungeon, on a platform, in which is a prostrate
statue representing the dead body of our Lord, as taken from the Cross,
covered with streaks of blood, and the skin in welts, as if fresh from
the scourge. According to the tradition of the neighbourhood, this was
the daily scene of the private devotions of Louis the Eleventh; and the
character of the place and of the images around, have certainly some
symphony with the known disposition of that monarch. No one, even in the
horrible Revolution, has disturbed these relics; it is still exhibited
as the tyrant's dungeon, and no one enters or leaves it without feeling
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