Travels through the states of North America, and the provinces of Upper and Lower Canada, during the years 1795, 1796, and 1797 [Vol. 1 of 2]Weld, Isaac
History
Travels through the states of North America, and the provinces of Upper and Lower Canada, during the years 1795, 1796, and 1797 [Vol. 1 of 2]
Weld, Isaac
Canada -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; United States -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800
Such a number of roads in different directions cross over these flats,
upon none of which there is any thing like a direction post, and the
face of a human being is so rarely met with, that it is scarcely
possible for a traveller to find out the direct way at once. Instead of
twelve miles, the distance by the straight road from Port Tobacco to the
ferry, my horse had certainly travelled twice the number before we got
there. The ferry-house was one of those old dilapidated mansions that
formerly was the residence perhaps of some wealthy planter, and at the
time when the fields yielded their rich crops of tobacco would have
afforded some refreshment to the weary traveller; but in the state I
found it, it was the picture of wretchedness and poverty. After having
waited for two hours and a half for my breakfast, the most I could
procure was two eggs, a pint of milk, and a bit of cake bread, scarcely
as big as my hand, and but little better than dough. This I had also to
divide with my servant, who came to inform me, that there was absolutely
nothing to eat in the house but what had been brought to me. I could not
but mention this circumstance to several persons when I got into
Virginia, and many of them informed me, that they had experienced the
same treatment themselves at this house; yet this house had the name of
a tavern. What the white people who inhabited it lived upon I could not
discover, but it was evident that they took care of themselves. As for
the poor slaves, however, of which there were many in the huts adjoining
the tavern, they had a most wretched appearance, and seemed to be half
starved. The men and women were covered with rags, and the children were
running about stark naked.
[Sidenote: EXCELLENT FISH.]
After having got into the ferry boat, the man of the house, as if
conscious that he had given me very bad fare, told me that there was a
bank of oysters in the river, close to which it was necessary to pass,
and that if I chose to stop the men would procure abundance of them for
me. The curiosity of getting oysters in fresh water tempted me to stop,
and the men got near a bushel of them in a very few minutes. These
oysters are extremely good when cooked, but very disagreeable eaten raw;
indeed all the oysters found in America, not excepting what are taken at
New York, so close to the ocean, are, in the opinion of most Europeans,
very indifferent and tasteless when raw. The Americans, on their part,
find still greater fault with our oysters, which they say are not fit to
be eat in any shape, because they taste of copper. The Patowmac, as well
as the rest of the rivers in Virginia, abounds with excellent fish of
many different kinds, as sturgeon, shad, roach, herrings, &c. which form
a very principal part of the food of the people living in the
neighbourhood of them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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