Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile, Volume 1 (of 5): In the years 1768, 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772 and 1773Bruce, James
History
Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile, Volume 1 (of 5): In the years 1768, 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772 and 1773
Bruce, James
Egypt -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- History; Natural history -- Ethiopia; Nile River
The women seldom marry after sixteen; we saw several with child, who
they said were not eleven years old. Yet I did not observe that the
men were less in size, less vigorous and active in body, than in other
places. This, one would not imagine from the appearance these young
wives make. They are little better coloured than a corpse, and look
older at sixteen, than many English women at sixty, so that you are to
look for beauty here in childhood only.
Achmim appears to be the Panopolis of the ancients, not only by its
latitude, but also by an inscription of a very large triumphal arch, a
few hundred yards south of the convent. It is built with marble by the
Emperor Nero, and is dedicated in a Greek inscription, ΠΑΝΙ ΘΕΩ. The
columns that were in its front are broken and thrown away; the arch
itself is either sunk into the ground, or overturned on the side, with
little separation of the several pieces.
The 24th of December we left Achmim, and came to the village Shekh Ali
on the west, two miles and a quarter distant. We then passed Hamdi,
about the same distance farther south; Aboudarac and Salladi on the
east; then Salladi Garbieh, and Salladi Shergieh on the east and west,
as the names import; and a number of villages, almost opposite, on each
side of the river.
At three o’clock in the afternoon we arrived at Girgé, the largest
town we had seen since we left Cairo; which, by the latitude Ptolemy
has very rightly placed it in, should be the Diospolis Parva, and not
Gawa, as Mr Norden makes it. For this we know is the beginning of the
Diospolitan nome, and is near a remarkable crook of the Nile, as it
should be. It is also on the western side of the river, as Diospolis
was, and at a proper distance from Dendera, the ancient Tentyra, a mark
which cannot be mistaken.
The Nile makes a kind of loop here; is very broad, and the current
strong. We passed it with a wind at north; but the waves ran high as
in the ocean. All the country, on both sides of the Nile, to Girgé, is
but one continued grove of palm-trees, in which are several villages a
small distance from each other, Doulani, Consaed, Deirout, and Berdis,
on the west side; Welled Hallifi, and Beni Haled, on the east.
The villages have all a very picturesque appearance among the trees,
from the many pigeon-houses that are on the tops of them. The mountains
on the east begin to depart from the river, and those on the west to
approach nearer it. It seems to me, that, soon, the greatest part of
Egypt on the east side of the Nile, between Achmim and Cairo, will be
desert; not from the rising of the ground by the mud, as is supposed,
but from the quantity of sand from the mountains, which covers the
mould or earth several feet deep. This 24th of December, at night, we
anchored between two villages, Beliani and Mobanniny.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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