Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile, Volume 3 (of 5): In the years 1768, 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772 and 1773Bruce, James
History
Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile, Volume 3 (of 5): In the years 1768, 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772 and 1773
Bruce, James
Egypt -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- History; Natural history -- Ethiopia; Nile River
The mountains of Waldubba, resembling those of Adebarea, lay north of
us about four or five miles. Waldubba, which signifies _the Valley
of the Hyæna_, is a territory entirely inhabited by the monks, who,
for mortification’s sake, have retired to this unwholesome, hot, and
dangerous country, voluntarily to spend their lives in penitence,
meditation, and prayer. This, too, is the only retreat of great men
in disgrace or in disgust. These first shave their hair, and put on a
cowl like the monks, renouncing the world for solitude, and taking vows
which they resolve to keep no longer than exigencies require; after
which they return to the world again, leaving their cowl and sanctity
in Waldubba.
These monks are held in great veneration; are believed by many to have
the gift of prophecy, and some of them to work miracles, and are very
active instruments to stir up the people in time of trouble. Those that
I have seen out of Waldubba in Gondar, and about Koscam, never shewed
any great marks of abstinence; they ate and drank every thing without
scruple, and in large quantities too. They say they live otherwise in
Waldubba, and perhaps it may be so. There are women, also, whom we
should call Nuns, who, though not residing in Waldubba, go at times
thither, and live in a familiarity with these saints, that has very
little favour of spirituality; and many of these, who think the living
in community with this holy fraternity has not in it perfection enough
to satisfy their devotion, retire, one of each sex, a hermit and a nun,
sequestering themselves for months, to eat herbs together in private
upon the top of the mountains. These, on their return, are shewn as
miracles of holiness,--lean, enervated, and exhausted. Whether this is
wholly to be laid to the charge of the herbs, is more than I will take
upon me to decide, never having been at these retirements of Waldubba.
Violent fevers perpetually reign there. The inhabitants are all of the
colour of a corpse; and their neighbours, the Shangalla, by constant
inroads, destroy many of them, though lately they have been stopped, as
they say, by the prayers of the monks. I suppose their partners, the
nuns, had their share in it, as both of them are said to be equally
superior in holiness and purity of living to what their predecessors
formerly were. But, not to derogate from the efficaciousness of their
prayers, the _natural cause_ why the Shangalla molest them no more, is
the small-pox, which has greatly reduced their strength and number, and
extinguished, to a man, whole tribes of them.
The water is both scarce and bad at Debra Toon, there being but one
spring, or fountain, and it was exceedingly ill-tasted. We did not
intend to make this a station; but, having sent a servant to Hauza to
buy a mule in room of that which the hyæna had eaten, we were afraid
to leave our man, who was not yet come forward, lest he should fall in
with the Shum of Addergey, who might stop the mule for our arrears of
customs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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