Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile, Volume 3 (of 5): In the years 1768, 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772 and 1773Bruce, James
History
Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile, Volume 3 (of 5): In the years 1768, 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772 and 1773
Bruce, James
Egypt -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- History; Natural history -- Ethiopia; Nile River
On the 8th, at three quarters past six o’clock in the morning, we left
Dippebaha, and, at seven, had two small villages on our left; one on
the S. E. distant two miles, the other on the south, one mile off.
They are called Wora, and so is the territory for some space on each
side of them; but, beyond the valley, all is Shahagaanah to the root
of Lamalmon. At a quarter past seven, the village of Gingerohha was
three miles on our right; and we were now ascending Lamalmon, through
a very narrow road, or rather path, for it scarcely was two feet wide
any where. It was a spiral winding up the side of the mountain, always
on the very brink of a precipice. Torrents of water, which in winter
carry prodigious stones down the side of this mountain, had divided
this path into several places, and opened to us a view of that dreadful
abyss below, which few heads can (mine at least could not) bear to
look down upon. We were here obliged to unload our baggage, and, by
slow degrees, crawl up the hill, carrying them little by little upon
our shoulders round these chasms where the road was intersected. The
mountains grow steeper, the paths narrower, and the breaches more
frequent as we ascend. Scarce were our mules, though unloaded, able
to scramble up, but were perpetually falling; and, to increase our
difficulties, which, in such cases, seldom come single, a large number
of cattle was descending, and seemed to threaten to push us all into
the gulf below. After two hours of constant toil, at nine o’clock we
alighted in a small plain called Kedus, or St Michael, from a church
and village of that name, neither beast nor man being able to go a step
further.
The plain of St Michael, where we now were, is at the foot of a
steep cliff which terminates the west side of Lamalmon. It is here
perpendicular like a wall, and a few trees only upon the top of the
cliff. Over this precipice flow two streams of water, which never are
dry, but run in all seasons. They fall into a wood at the bottom of
this cliff, and preserve it in continual verdure all the year, tho’
the plain itself below, as I have said, is all rent into chasms, and
cracked by the heat of the sun. These two streams form a considerable
rivulet in the plain of St Michael, and are a great relief both to men
and cattle in this tedious and difficult passage over the mountain.
The air on Lamalmon is pleasant and temperate. We found here our
appetite return, with a chearfulness, lightness of spirits, and agility
of body, which indicated that our nerves had again resumed their wonted
tone, which they had lost in the low, poisonous, and sultry air on the
coast of the Red Sea. The sun here is indeed hot, but in the morning a
cool breeze never fails, which increases as the sun rises high. In the
shade it is always cool. The thermometer, in the shade, in the plain of
St Michael, this day, was 76°, wind N. W.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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