Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile, Volume 3 (of 5): In the years 1768, 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772 and 1773Bruce, James
History
Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile, Volume 3 (of 5): In the years 1768, 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772 and 1773
Bruce, James
Egypt -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- History; Natural history -- Ethiopia; Nile River
The 26th, at seven in the morning, we left our most pleasant quarters
under the daroo-tree, and set forward with great alacrity. About a
quarter of a mile from the river we crossed the end of the plain
Zarai, already mentioned. Though this is but three miles long, and
one where broadest, it was the largest plain we had seen since our
passing Taranta, whose top was now covered wholly with large, black,
and very heavy clouds, from which we heard and saw frequent peals of
thunder, and violent streams of lightning. This plain was sown partly
with wheat, partly with Indian corn; the first was cut down, the other
not yet ripe. Two miles farther we passed Addicota, a village planted
upon a high rock; the sides towards us were as if cut perpendicular
like a wall. Here was one refuge of the Jesuits when banished Tigrè by
Facilidas, when they fled to the rebel John Akay. We after this passed
a variety of small villages on each side of us, all on the top of
hills; Darcotta and Embabuwhat on the right, Azaria on the left.
At half an hour past eleven we encamped under a mountain, on the top
of which is a village called Hadawi, consisting of no more than eighty
houses, though, for the present, it is the seat of the Baharnagash. The
present Baharnagash had bought the little district that he commanded,
after the present governor of Tigré, Michael Suhul, had annexed to his
own province what he pleased of the old domains, and farmed the other
part to the Naybe for a larger revenue than he ever could get from any
other tenant. The Naybe had now no longer a naval force to support
him, and the fear of Turkish conquest had ceased in Tigrè. The Naybe
could be reduced within any bounds that the governor of Tigrè might
please to prescribe him; and the Baharnagash was a servant maintained
to watch over him, and starve him into obedience, by intercepting his
provisions whenever the governor of Tigré commanded him.
This nobleman paid me a visit in my tent, and was the first Abyssinian
I had seen on horseback; he had seven attendant horsemen with him, and
about a dozen of others on foot, all of a beggarly appearance, and very
ill-armed and equipped. He was a little man, of an olive complexion,
or rather darker; his head was shaved close, with a cowl, or covering,
upon it; he had a pair of short trousers; his feet and legs were bare;
the usual coarse girdle was wrapt several times about him, in which he
stuck his knife; and the ordinary web of cotton cloth, neither new nor
clean, was thrown about him. His parts seemed to be much upon the level
with his appearance. He asked me, if I had ever seen horses before? I
said, Very seldom. He then described their qualities in such a manner
as would never have given me any idea of the animal if I had seen it
seldom. He excused himself for not having sent us provisions, because
he had been upon an expedition against some rebellious villages, and
was then only just returned.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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