Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile, Volume 3 (of 5): In the years 1768, 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772 and 1773Bruce, James
History
Travels to Discover the Source of the Nile, Volume 3 (of 5): In the years 1768, 1769, 1770, 1771, 1772 and 1773
Bruce, James
Egypt -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- Description and travel; Ethiopia -- History; Natural history -- Ethiopia; Nile River
The province of Tigré is all mountainous; and it has been said, without
any foundation in truth, that the Pyrenees, Alps, and Apennines, are
but mole-hills compared to them. I believe, however, that one of the
Pyrenees above St John Pied de Port, is much higher than Lamalmon;
and that the mountain of St Bernard, one of the Alps, is full as high
as Taranta, or rather higher. It is not the extreme height of the
mountains in Abyssinia that occasions surprise, but the number of
them, and the extraordinary forms they present to the eye. Some of
them are flat, thin, and square, in shape of a hearth-stone, or slab,
that scarce would seem to have base sufficient to resist the action of
the winds. Some are like pyramids, others like obelisks or prisms, and
some, the most extraordinary of all the rest, pyramids pitched upon
their points, with their base uppermost, which, if it was possible, as
it is not, they could have been so formed in the beginning, would be
strong objections to our received ideas of gravity.
They tan hides to great perfection in Tigré, but for one purpose only.
They take off the hair with the juice of two plants, a species of
solanum, and the juice of the kol-quall; both these are produced in
abundance in the province. They are great novices, however, in dyeing;
the plant called Suf produces the only colour they have, which is
yellow. In order to obtain a blue, to weave as a border to their cotton
clothes, they unravel the blue threads of the Marowt, or blue cloth of
Surat, and then weave them again with the thread which they have dyed
with the suf.
It was on the 10th of January 1770 I visited the remains of the
Jesuits convent of Fremona. It is built upon the even ridge of a
very high hill, in the middle of a large plain, on the opposite side
of which stands Adowa. It rises from the east to the west, and ends
in a precipice on the east; it is also very steep to the north, and
slopes gently down to the plain on the south. The convent is about
a mile in circumference, built substantially with stones, which are
cemented with lime-morter. It has towers in the flanks and angles; and,
notwithstanding the ill-usage it has suffered, the walls remain still
entire to the height of twenty-five feet. It is divided into three,
by cross walls of equal height. The first division seems to have been
destined for the convent, the middle for the church, and the third
division is separated from this by a wall, and stands upon a precipice.
It seems to me as if it was designed for a place of arms. All the walls
have holes for muskets, and, even now, it is by far the most defensible
place in Abyssinia. It resembles an ancient castle much more than a
convent.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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