Trees, Fruits and Flowers of Minnesota, 1916: Embracing the Transactions of the Minnesota State Horticultural Society,Volume 44, from December 1, 1915, to December 1, 1916, Including the Twelve Numbers of "The Minnesota Horticulturist" for 1916
History
Trees, Fruits and Flowers of Minnesota, 1916: Embracing the Transactions of the Minnesota State Horticultural Society,Volume 44, from December 1, 1915, to December 1, 1916, Including the Twelve Numbers of "The Minnesota Horticulturist" for 1916
We have experienced some success in the use of a sparrow trap, catching
from 11 to 25 in half a day. It must be noted, however, that this does
not occur every day, and further, that the young birds are most easily
caught. Both old and young evidently learn to avoid the trap. Another
party who has used this trap also reports success even greater than
ours. Other parties report an average catch of ten birds a day for
nearly four months. One can also, if on a farm, resort to shooting them
singly, or, better, when gathered together feeding. In fact, they may be
baited with grain for a few days (preferably in the fall or winter) and
previous to the use of the shotgun. This accustoms them to gathering in
a close flock. Eggs and nests may be repeatedly destroyed, if placed
within reach. A well-directed stream of water from a hose is helpful in
making them desert their roosts, at least for a while.
Dearborn (Farmers' Bulletin No. 493, U.S. Dept. of Agr.) describes a
nest-box trap. Sparrows may also be poisoned, but this calls for extreme
care. In this case it is interesting to learn that one experimenter fed
a large number of sparrows killed by poisoning to a pet cat with no ill
effects to the latter.
We have picked them from cornices upon our house at dusk with the aid of
a small collecting gun or pistol, firing a very light charge of shot,
but found that the shot marred the house, and were therefore obliged to
discontinue the practice.
In addition to trapping sparrows with approved sparrow traps the
following recipe has recently come to our notice:
"Feed good cracked corn a few days; then substitute poisoned cracked
corn made as follows: Soak one quart of cracked corn in water; take it
out and let it get about half dry. Dissolve one ounce of strychnia in
hot water. Soak corn in this until it swells and then dry completely."
BEE-KEEPER'S COLUMN.
Conducted by FRANCIS JAGER, Professor of Apiculture, University
Farm, St. Paul.
COMB HONEY, EXTRACTED HONEY, AND INCREASE.
(Continued from May No.)
Colonies run for comb honey are very much inclined to swarm. Swarming
with the resulting division of forces is incompatible with profitable
comb honey production. The colony must be kept together for best
results. The following methods are used by well known beekeepers.
1. At the beginning of the honey flow let the colony cast a natural
swarm. After hiving the bees on starters or full sheets of foundation
and giving them a little brood to prevent them from swarming out again,
the swarm is put in the place of the parent colony, which is removed to
one side two or three feet. The seventh day the old colony is moved over
to the opposite side of the swarm two or three feet. Two weeks after,
all the bees are shaken in front of the swarm, and the hive with wax and
honey removed. Thus the desire of bees for swarming has been satisfied,
and the colony is still working together.
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