“It hath ever been understood,” said a burly man, who carried his head humorously and obstinately a little on one side--I think he was Ben Jonson--“It hath ever been understood, consule Jacobo, under our King James and her late Majesty, that such good and hearty customs were fallen sick, and like to pass from the world. This grey beard most surely was no lustier when I knew him than now.” And I also thought I heard a green-clad man, like Robin Hood, say in some mixed Norman French, “But I saw the man dying.” “I have felt like this a long time,” said Father Christmas, in his feeble way again. Mr. Charles Dickens suddenly leant across to him. “Since when?” he asked. “Since you were born?” “Yes,” said the old man, and sank shaking into a chair. “I have been always dying.” Mr. Dickens took off his hat with a flourish like a man calling a mob to rise. “I understand it now,” he cried, “you will never die.” XXXVIII. The Ballade of a Strange Town My friend and I, in fooling about Flanders, fell into a fixed affection for the town of Mechlin or Malines. Our rest there was so restful that we almost felt it as a home, and hardly strayed out of it. We sat day after day in the market-place, under little trees growing in wooden tubs, and looked up at the noble converging lines of the Cathedral tower, from which the three riders from Ghent, in the poem, heard the bell which told them they were not too late. But we took as much pleasure in the people, in the little boys with open, flat Flemish faces and fur collars round their necks, making them look like burgomasters; or the women, whose prim, oval faces, hair strained tightly off the temples, and mouths at once hard, meek, and humorous, exactly reproduced the late mediaeval faces in Memling and Van Eyck. But one afternoon, as it happened, my friend rose from under his little tree, and pointing to a sort of toy train that was puffing smoke in one corner of the clear square, suggested that we should go by it. We got into the little train, which was meant really to take the peasants and their vegetables to and fro from their fields beyond the town, and the official came round to give us tickets. We asked him what place we should get to if we paid fivepence. The Belgians are not a romantic people, and he asked us (with a lamentable mixture of Flemish coarseness and French rationalism) where we wanted to go. We explained that we wanted to go to fairyland, and the only question was whether we could get there for fivepence. At last, after a great deal of international misunderstanding (for he spoke French in the Flemish and we in the English manner), he told us that fivepence would take us to a place which I have never seen written down, but which when spoken sounded like the word “Waterloo” pronounced by an intoxicated patriot; I think it was Waerlowe. We clasped our hands and said it was the place we had been seeking from boyhood, and when we had got there we descended with promptitude.