Circassia (Russia) -- Social life and customs; Crimea (Ukraine) -- Social life and customs; Harems
On the neck of the isthmus stands Sinope, commanding a beautiful
view of the long range of mountains and wooded hills that line the
coast. The town itself is a quaint place, tightly squeezed into some
old castellated walls, with a fierce little pepper-box of a fort
at each corner. Outside the town, a long straggling Greek suburb
runs up the hill for a considerable distance, its low red and brown
houses looking very picturesque amongst the groups of cypress and
fig-trees. The roadstead, though open and exposed to the east, has the
reputation of being perfectly secure, and we find ourselves in quite
a little crowd of Greek, Turkish, Austrian, and Russian vessels. It
seems, therefore, that others besides ourselves have had forebodings
of bad weather, and have taken refuge in this, the only safe anchorage
on the southern side of the Black Sea. It is singular, however, that
the anchorage should be so safe, for it is difficult to believe that
a heavy sea would not set into the bay, should the wind come from
any quarter between north-east and south. It is said, however, that a
vessel has never been known to be driven from her anchor; so the only
solution is that these winds never blow here with violence. Certainly
during our stay, though a tremendous sea was running about a mile or
two out, but little swell ever came up to the anchorage.
On the morning after our arrival, an intimation came from the Pasha
(one of the Sultan's numerous brothers-in-law), that he wished to
pay us a visit. Soon after twelve his Highness arrived, attended
by a very numerous suite, and accompanied by a Greek gentleman,
the Austrian consul.
We were somewhat dismayed at the sight of such a goodly company, as
our little cabins could not possibly accommodate so large a party of
guests, and a Turk of high rank does not like to remain on deck. All
were anxious to come below; it was therefore somewhat difficult to
prevent undue crowding, for the Pasha was so interested in all he saw,
that he insisted upon visiting every part of the vessel. He appeared
an exceedingly intelligent man, and had a vivacity of manner somewhat
unusual in a Turk.
When the cakes and sweetmeats appeared they were accompanied by
champagne and liqueurs, both of which beverages were highly approved
of. Happily by the laws of the Koran they are not considered wine,
and the champagne was drunk in tumblers without any hesitation.
As the Governor descended into his state barge, manned by ten rowers
in grand but rather dirty crimson jackets and fezzes, the yacht gave
him the proper salute of fifteen guns, a compliment that was promptly
returned by a Turkish man-of-war, to the intense joy of all the little
boys in the town, who came flocking out of numberless narrow streets
and alleys in an astonishing variety of dress, or rather undress.
Later in the day we proceeded to make a little tour round the town.
Sinope is divided into two parts, one inhabited by Turks, the other
by Greeks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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