Circassia (Russia) -- Social life and customs; Crimea (Ukraine) -- Social life and customs; Harems
After blowing another hurricane all night there is this morning a
decided improvement in the weather. The wind has gone down nearly as
suddenly as it rose, though the sea is still running very high.
Some of the old wooden houses towards the outskirts of the town,
where they were more exposed to the violence of the storm, have
suffered considerable damage, and two have literally been blown
down. Happily, the inhabitants were able to escape in time, and no
lives have been lost.
As I was anxious to make some sketches before being prevented by
our own departure, or by some of the prettiest houses tumbling into
ruins, we went early on shore on a drawing expedition; but amongst
so many picturesque spots, it was quite an embarras de richesses
to know where to begin. At last I set to work upon a narrow street
with dark-brown houses, whose overhanging eaves almost touched their
opposite neighbours.
How I longed to have the skill of a really good artist, especially
to draw one low projecting window which the leafy branches of a vine
had formed into a little arch. A stray sunbeam was gleaming brightly
on two fair young faces as they peeped shyly at the strangers through
the framework of the tender green leaves. It was difficult to decide
which shone brightest in the dark street, the bright eyes or the
bright sunshine.
With this charming exception the place had seemed deserted when the
sketch began, but after a few strokes had been made sundry little
groups appeared at the doors, and emboldened by our pretending to
take no notice, they gradually approached. Some of the older women
ventured at last to look over my shoulder to see what I was about,
and, when house after house appeared on the paper, their delight
could no longer be controlled, and they eagerly called the owners to
see the wonderful production.
Having accomplished the houses as well as I could, I wanted some
figures to complete the little picture, and tried to sketch in as
rapidly as possible a group of pretty girls who stood near. But this
was going too far, and was too great a tax on their courage. They fled
instantly; for so great is their dread of the evil eye that they,
no doubt, felt persuaded that, were they to allow their likeness to
be taken by a stranger, it would entail certain misery upon them. In
southern countries one must carefully avoid noticing young people
too much, and must especially beware of praising little children. A
mother would think it most cruel kindness, as it would be directly
casting the jettatura upon her child.
In many parts of Calabria (the stronghold of this superstition)
it does not do for a friend, if a foreigner, to say a word even in
favour of that generally-praised member of the family, the baby. Like
the women of a Turkish harem, the children of a Christian household
are too sacred to be mentioned.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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