Circassia (Russia) -- Social life and customs; Crimea (Ukraine) -- Social life and customs; Harems
We left the carriage at the lodge gates and walked down the beautiful
road to Orianda, sometimes passing under trellises of vines, where
the purple grapes were hanging in delicious profusion, then going
through woods and avenues of fine trees.
The rays of the setting sun were now streaming through every opening,
making the old Scotch firs look all aflame in the glorious light.
The villa is a large, white Grecian building, not handsome enough for
a palace nor pretty enough for a country house. There are some fine
rooms, rather grand and very gloomy. The pleasantest sitting-room was
a hall, painted and decorated like a Pompeian court, with a fountain
in the centre, surrounded by flowers and ferns.
The gardens and terraces make the delight of the place. Vines, myrtles,
and magnolia-trees are trained over arches, and under their fragrant
shade, the air cooled by innumerable fountains, how pleasantly must
the summer days pass! What an enchanting change from hot, dusty
St. Petersburg!
The present Empress has not yet paid this pretty place a visit, but
the Grand-Duchess Constantine came for several months one summer. Her
Imperial Highness seems to have made herself universally popular;
her parties enlivened the whole neighbourhood, and she is spoken of
by all classes with the heartiest affection.
Within an hour after sunset the wind became bitterly cold, and
every cloak and shawl was called into requisition during the drive
home. This sudden change of temperature is the only drawback to
Yalta, and invalids who come here for health must carefully avoid
exposing themselves to the night-air. The dew also falls very heavily;
therefore here, as in Italy, the hour after sunset is a dangerous
period. Later in the night, for those who are strong, the fresh wind
is very invigorating.
Yalta is so favourite a spot that people come even from Petersburg to
spend the summer here. It gives one some idea of the enormous extent
of Russia to know that it is a fortnight's journey, travelling night
and day, to get from Yalta to St. Petersburg.
Thanks to our kind friends, the B----s, we have seen all the prettiest
villas in the neighbourhood. Count Narisckine has a very lovely
estate. There are also some beautiful places now unhappily shut up
and uninhabited, the owners having been ruined by the war. Land and
houses can now be bought very cheap, but unfortunately Yalta is too
far from England to make it available as a summer residence.
Prince Woronzoff has a very fine property at Aloupka, and a nearer
approach made it even more beautiful than we had thought it from the
yacht. The house stands in a magnificent position on a narrow ridge
of table-land between the cliffs and the sea. Great dark woods stretch
around it for miles, and the rock scenery is quite superb. Our Russian
friends did not, however, share our enthusiasm, and thought the more
cultivated, smiling scenery round Yalta infinitely more beautiful.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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