Circassia (Russia) -- Social life and customs; Crimea (Ukraine) -- Social life and customs; Harems
There are some things so beautiful that one shrinks from describing
them. Words cannot paint the loveliness that is seen by the eye. To say
that we saw before us a country that possessed, with the tender charm
of English woodland scenery, the rich glow of the Italian landscape,
and the grand majesty of Alpine ranges, gives but a feeble idea
of the delicious beauty of the land we were gazing on. The light,
the colouring, the exquisite effect of the soft mists as they slowly
arose from the valleys, can be better imagined than described, but
as we looked, we thought, Here is a land where Nature has in truth
perfected her handiwork!
The yacht was moving gently on, there was barely a ripple on the water,
and, seemingly, we were within a stone's throw of the shore. A little
sandy beach ran along the edge of the sea, then rose banks all mossy
and ferny, with undulating grass-fields and conical hills, with great
clumps of oak and beech trees scattered about. Then came a region
of dark fir-woods, mingled with the tender green of the weeping
birches. Farther away still were steep hills and rugged mountains,
their sides all covered with vast forests, stretching away far as
the eye could reach, whilst above their dark shaggy masses rose the
majestic peaks of a distant range, glistening white in their dazzling
covering of eternal snow. Cattle and sheep were wandering over the
rich pastures, but peaceful as the country appeared, peace is, in
reality, the blessing most unknown to it. War is constantly raging,
and the smiling plain and pretty thickets before us have been the
scene of many a fierce struggle.
We longed to land. The boat was being lowered for the purpose, when
luckily for us, as we afterwards discovered, a breeze sprang up,
and we continued our course towards Soukoum-Kalé. Had we gone on
shore, in all probability we should have been taken prisoners by the
hostile Circassians (who hold this part of the country), carried up
into the mountains, and compelled to pay a considerable sum before
our involuntary sojourn amongst them had ended.
A species of guerilla warfare is incessantly going on between the
inhabitants in these remote parts and the Russians. The former
consider all Europeans as enemies, and though the Russians are
nominally masters of the country, the Circassians still possess
amongst the mountains some strongholds that are almost impregnable.
Whenever they have a chance, they make captures, on account of the
ransoms they usually obtain. Should the prisoner be of any importance,
he generally prefers paying a moderate sum, rather than endure months
of miserable imprisonment. As to the common soldiers, they are usually
shot, their value being but small.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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