Circassia (Russia) -- Social life and customs; Crimea (Ukraine) -- Social life and customs; Harems
The next morning it was discovered, to the vexation of all on board,
that we had overshot our mark. A headland had been mistaken, and the
yacht was some miles beyond Soukoum-Kalé. We had to work our way back
again therefore, and it was mid-day before the anchor was dropped in
the roadstead opposite the little town.
Navigation off this coast is very difficult. There are but few charts,
and even these few are not correct. Indeed it is hinted that there
is no desire that the difficulties should be diminished.
The country around Soukoum is quite as beautiful as any we have yet
seen; but the town itself, though its low, white houses scattered along
the shore and up the sides of the wooded hills are picturesque enough,
seems a small, insignificant place, little more than a Russian fort.
A Russian transport and three small ships of war were anchored near
us, the decks and yards thronged with people anxious to see such an
unusual, such a wonderful sight as an English yacht. The Claymore has
the honour of being the first vessel to fly the Royal Yacht Squadron
flag at Soukoum-Kalé.
On shore the same excitement prevailed. The beach was crowded with
people, who watched our movements with the greatest interest and
curiosity, evidently brought to a culminating point when they saw
ladies and children on board. The English consul, Mr. D----, soon
arrived, kindly anxious to give every assistance. By-and-by the
governor and admiral, attended by their aides-de-camp, also came on
board; and after a time we went on shore with them.
The beach where we landed was crowded with Russians and Circassians,
many of the latter the wildest-looking creatures imaginable. They were
mostly however fine, tall men, with remarkably erect and graceful
figures, intelligent faces, and large, dark, fiery eyes. Their
dignified bearing was in marked contrast to the depressed appearance
and careworn countenances of the majority of the Russians.
In poverty and in rags a Circassian retains his independent,
self-relying manner, and looks (what he generally is) a bold
mountaineer, who, notwithstanding his nominal submission to a foreign
power, preserves his liberty, and, with gun and sword, can defend his
own against the world. This same gun and sword, it is asserted, are
not unfrequently turned to other and less legitimate uses, for their
owner does not scruple to avail himself of any favourable opportunity
of enriching his purse by their aid.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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