The personal appearance of the Sultan has been described by many
writers, for no monarch in the world was seen so regularly in public as
he. Anybody who wished to see him had only to walk up to the Imperial
Palace, the Yildiz Kiosk (“Tent of the Stars”), on a Friday morning, and
he was absolutely certain of seeing His Majesty as he drove in an open
victoria, with Ghazi Osman sitting opposite him, out of the Palace gates
to the Hamidiè Mosque to prayer, and half an hour later, on his way
back, when he himself handled the ribbons. It is quite true that the
road was double-lined with soldiers, but that in no way prevented the
spectator from taking stock at his leisure of the Sultan and all his
courtly surroundings. Then, again, a number of rooms adjoining the
Palace, overlooking the whole pageant of the Selamlik, were placed by
the Sultan at the disposal of foreign visitors and the better classes of
Constantinople every Friday, and it used to be—until the last few years,
as explained elsewhere—the easiest thing in the world for anybody with a
decent coat to his back to obtain a card of admission, and thus, for the
short period of one forenoon, to become _de facto_ a guest of the
Sultan. During the interval, whilst the Sultan was in the Mosque,
excellent tea and sometimes, on exceptional occasions, even sweets and
cigarettes were handed round to the visitors, whilst bags of bonbons
were distributed among the crowd in the road on Mohammed’s birthday; a
list of those present was also regularly handed to the Sultan, who
perused it, and if any name was familiar to him, he would send his
personal greeting to the visitor in question. Thus the privilege of
witnessing the ceremony of the Selamlik from the rooms set apart for the
purpose was one involving the acceptance of His Majesty’s hospitality.
There every Turk appeared dressed in his best, wearing his decorations.
This was not always realized by visitors of the English-speaking world,
some of whom I have seen in flannel shirts, dirty shoes, and
knickerbockers mingling, with complete self-possession, among
diplomatists and others belonging to good society, who were carefully
attired for the occasion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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