The lack of a distinctive, dominant national feature which marks
intellectual or social life generally at Constantinople extends to the
cuisine. There are not half a dozen establishments in the whole city in
which the Western European can obtain a meal that in any way satisfies a
discriminating palate. Even at the Club de Constantinople the cooking
has the irritating, kaleidoscopic, nondescript character of its members;
it is of every and of no nationality. It is only at the Cercle d’Orient,
the club of the diplomatic world, and at the Embassies that the cuisine
has that Parisian foundation to which the epicure can look forward with
pleasure. Under such circumstances it is a great treat to be invited by
one of the “gros bonnets” of the diplomatic world whose dinners enjoy a
well-deserved popularity. It was on such an occasion that, carried away
by the excellence of the fare, I ventured to express myself to his
Excellency to the following effect. I had noticed that there was not a
single member of his Ambassadorial staff who had not been decorated by
the Sultan, so I suggested that he might perhaps prevail upon His
Majesty to bestow a decoration upon his cook, whose culinary feats
appeared to me to constitute an appreciable auxiliary force telling in
the scale of his Excellency’s many diplomatic triumphs.
Not overwork, but over-eating, late hours, and no exercise constitute
the real handicap to longevity in the diplomatic world in
Constantinople, for Ambassadorial dinners and dinner-giving go on all
the year round, each Embassy in turn inviting the others: “cutlet
against cutlet.” This means sitting up late. It is almost impossible for
the heads of the different Embassies, who are supposed never to take a
walk abroad except when preceded by dragomans and kavasses, to indulge
in a quiet daily “constitutional” either on foot or on horseback. Such a
mode of living requires a tough constitution, and it is not surprising
to find that an Ambassador at Constantinople rarely attains a great age.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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