The chief physical feature of Madagascar is the central mountain mass,
which commences with lofty mountains at the north end of the island, and
retains them till within a moderate distance of its southern cape. The
entire central line is high ground and only its two sides are level
plains along the east and west sea-coasts. The central mass is by no
means uniform in its appearance. We have already shown how, on ascending
to the interior from the east coast, the traveller meets and
successively mounts three lofty mountain walls, each supporting a broad
terrace behind it. The first of these, west of Ampásimbé, rises 900
feet: beyond Befórona, the second terrace is 1400 feet higher: the third
ascent at Angávo carried us up 1620 feet on to the highest part of the
Imerina plain. The central plateau has a general height of 4000 feet: at
its widest part it is ninety miles in width; in the narrowest it is
about thirty miles. This plateau is somewhat over two hundred
geographical miles in length. It abounds in ridges and detached hills of
gneiss and granite, which give wonderful variety to the scenery; and at
several points these rocks spread out in wide, lofty and barren moors.
The rugged ridges enclose broad basins of the sedimentary clay, and the
numerous streams of pure water furnish abundant sustenance for the rice
crops, which form the principal food of the people. As this central
level is reached by great terraces from the east, so on the north, south
and west, the traveller descends from it on to other terraces, going
gradually lower and lower, until he reaches the level of the sea. It was
a matter of deep interest to Mr. Pillans and myself that we descended on
to the first terrace at several points; at Ambohimandroso, beyond Lake
Itasy, and in the valley of Ankay, before we finally followed down the
entire series of steps on our way to Mojangá. The fact that to so large
an extent the island consists of red clay, and appears to have been at
some time perfectly buried in it, accounts for the peculiar form of its
terraces and of the basins which they sustain. The enormous volcanic
forces hereafter to be described may have been required to break the
granite rocks and render them available for the use of men: but water
has exerted a mighty agency likewise on the island: and whether by rains
or streams or waterspouts, in the bursting of lakes or by gentle
showers, during long, long ages it has been ploughing and moulding and
shaping the land, and it is moulding and shaping and beautifying it
still.
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