For several days we had had in sight the great granite mountains of the
VAVA VATO, which we had skirted on their eastern side, on our journey to
the Betsileo province. The lofty serrated crest of these mountains had
furnished us with conspicuous points for our survey. On the west centre
were the noble peaks of Iávohaikia and Ivohitány; in the south bend was
the peak of Máhasóa; and on the northern curve were two rounded hills,
exceedingly like elephants; one very large, with a small elephant
standing in front of him. These points occur repeatedly in our survey
lists. We had long been approaching these granite mountains: the single
line first seen on the horizon had broken up into masses, showing
different ridges: and at Antoby we not only found ourselves close to
them, but Mr. Clemes assured us that there was no difficulty in making
the ascent and returning the same day. Our men, fortified for extra toil
by an extra day’s pay, entered into the scheme with spirit, and we
devoted Monday to the expedition.
We started at half-past seven and returned by half-past five: and with
lovely weather and a clear sky, had a successful day. We penetrated into
the very heart of the Váva Vato range: and climbed to the summit of
Iávohaikia (7100 feet), the highest peak of all. We found that, counting
from the west, the mass contains three ranges and on the third in its
centre is Iávoháikia. Behind is a fourth range, which bends to the
south-east: on this is Ivóhitány. The first three ranges run south for
three miles, then curve and end with a western front in the mass of
Máhasóa. To the north these ranges bend to the eastward, and on the
curve of the third and highest range are the two elephants. From them
and from the fourth range, two lofty ridges run to the east and
south-east: with fine grassy alleys between them.
This mass of mountains is piled up upon the grandest scale. Each ridge
is lofty and impresses one with its greatness. Who can adequately
describe the combination of the whole? It is impossible to enter into
details; to picture the thousands of fallen rocks; to tell the size and
vastness of individual rocks, bigger than palaces and temples; here
piled upon one another, there scattered in profusion over a vast space.
We walked beneath them, looking like pigmies: we climbed and climbed and
stood upon them, looking like flies. Their shapes were wonderfully fair:
their combinations and massings were strangely picturesque. Here a broad
grassy level lay between two ranges: there a dark narrow way passed
between giant rocks which towered high into the air. At the foot of huge
square pillars which might be formed into an Egyptian temple, we took
our refreshment on a granite table: the water everywhere was bright and
pure. No finer rocks, no masses of such surpassing grandeur, have I seen
in any of the countries which I have visited.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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