A few days after we set out to pay a brief visit to the town of
AMBOHIVELOMA, which has been selected as a station for the residence of
an English missionary in Western Imerina. The place is situated at the
distance of a long day’s journey from the Capital. Having crossed the
Ikopa and rounded the great hill and island of Ambóhitramanjáka, so
prominent in the landscape of Imerina, we rested at the next village of
Anósimanjáka, to give the men breakfast. And here we met with a singular
reception. Mr. Pillans and I were alone; there was no interpreter to
help us in our intercourse with the people. Putting up in a handsome new
chapel, not yet finished, the elders of the village came to pay their
respects: the chapel mats were speedily spread, and things were put in
preparation. We were strangers to these village elders: they knew that
we had come across the sea to visit the native churches: but they had
heard rumours that we were addicted to strange proceedings, which they
did not understand, and concerning which they had received no
instructions either from political or ecclesiastical authorities. They
were evidently afraid of us: they were therefore courteous but reserved.
After a few inquiries about things in general, whence we had come and
whither we were going, the reason came out. “In travelling about, do you
not take pictures?” “Yes, we have made many pictures.” “Do you not write
down the country and the churches?” “Yes, we do.” They looked very
serious over these confessions: and eventually the oldest goose in the
village and two little pots of rice were deemed a fitting present for
such very suspicious visitors.
Going on our way we had to cross the Andromba, now a strong stream,
eight or ten feet deep and sixty yards wide, bearing the waters of the
Kátsáoka as well as its own. Bridges are unknown in Madagascar over such
streams, and we must cross in a canoe. The only canoe available was a
narrow thing, with a big hole in it, stopped up with lumps of turf, and
leaking considerably. Besides there was not a single paddle to propel
it. What matter? Some luggage and a few bearers were put into the
gallant bark: and the ferryman rowed them over with his legs, using
first the right foot and then the left, that the resultant might be a
right line! The party landed safe: and in due time we followed. An
efficient paddle would have cost that genius one farthing.
Passing well to the north of Antongona and Ambohitrambo, we kept up a
long level valley, south of a fine hill that was new to us,
Ambóhimanáha. Again we crossed our old friend the Ombifotsy, and in due
time came near the Anonibe. We reached our destination just at sunset.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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