On Monday, June 22d, we resumed our journey early: and towards midday
approached the great inner belt of forest, which occupies so conspicuous
a position in the geography of the country. It forms the western
boundary of Ankay; appears in wonderful loveliness at Angavo; and
continues in unbroken grandeur, west of the Tanála, and as far south as
Ambóndrombé. It is not forest alone; it is a great gneiss wall, running
down the entire length of the country, the edge of the upper plateau of
the island: and the forest clothes and beautifies it. Near its inner
side we crossed the branches of the small river Manánta, another feeder
of the Betsiboka, running north-west. We crossed the ridge by a noble
pass, Ambárabáram-vato, the “gate of rock.” A climb of five hundred feet
from the clay plain brought us to the summit, a narrow ledge, about
three yards wide: from whence we had an extensive view over the Ankay
plain, as well as over the basin we had just quitted and its
continuation to the west. We found that the hill on which we stood had a
second summit a short distance away, called Ambohimila. We took
important observations, to fix the hill: and through all our trip, its
two lofty peaks proved a conspicuous landmark to which other points
might be referred. We descended by a natural staircase of huge granite
blocks: then reached the clay, which was very wet and slippery; crossed
a low clay ridge, covered with forest, through which our palankins with
difficulty found a way; and at last came into a fine long valley,
bordered with noble hills, whereon the forest seemed thicker, richer and
more lovely than ever. The total descent from the crest of the hill was
1280 feet. It will be remembered that at Angavo (a point on the same
wall further south), our ascent was 1206 feet. On the outer side of the
wall we observed hundreds of rounded buttresses, with deep inlets
between.
Though we had reached a comparative level and had rice fields around us,
we looked in vain for a village, where our men might get their first
meal. And it was two o’clock before we halted at a little cluster of
twelve houses, significantly named Mandánavátsy, “get your tiffin.” To
travellers coming from the Sihánaka territory, in the direction opposite
to our own, it conveys the excellent advice, “Make a good meal before
you go farther; you will find nothing to eat for hours.” We took the
advice on the way back. Having rested for two hours, we continued our
journey; and winding round and through richly wooded hills, we came at
sunset, to a clump of seven houses, called Ambatolampy, with a few
others scattered about. In one or two huts, now deserted, there had been
cases of small-pox, but the men carefully avoided them. Where they all
found accommodation, I was afraid to enquire. I only know that our three
servants slept somehow within the photograph tent, _four feet square_.
We had the eleven feet for ourselves; and had it not been for the
mosquitoes might have slept comfortably.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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