On Saturday our journey was long; we started very early and were nine
hours and a half in the palankin. Again and again we went down into the
swamps; crossed a river with a curious name, “that which a girl cannot
pass”; came close under the western hills of Ankay, covered with forest;
and enjoyed a pleasant midday rest at the fine village of Ambohitromby,
or “ox-town.” The swamp was difficult to traverse to-day. The _zozoro_
was very tall, strong and green: the _herena_, with its flat blade, was
often six feet long: and the _via_, the beautiful Arum lily, the
_Astrapœa Wallichi_, with its huge well-crimped leaves, was here in
abundance. We had also a few rofia palms. At times the ground was lumpy;
then we had swamp; then soft clay; we went round the edge of the reedy
forest or forced our way through it. Now some men stuck fast with the
luggage, then others. One spot was all but impassable. The water was
deep: the men beat down the stalks of the reeds; and staggered over the
slippery bridge as they best could. In another there was a single plank;
and our palankins were carried over with but one man at each end: the
firmness and steadiness with which they moved forward were wonderful:
and we all passed without accident.
This great swamp covers altogether an area of over six hundred square
miles: It has many arms running up into the hills on every side: and on
its north-east side is the clear lake of Alaotra. It lies at the north
end of Ankay; and receives the drainage of a vast district on the
south-east: the hills in that direction are peculiarly sandy and
friable: waterspouts and storms have wrought havoc among them, and all
the silt has been carried into the Sihánaka level. The only exit for the
waters is on the north-east: and here the ravine is narrow and rocks bar
the way. The waters are retained at a high level; and the sediment
washed down is buried beneath them. Long tongues and fingers of clay
project into the reed-covered reservoir; and a few hills stand out like
islands in the deep green sea. Imerina must once have been what this
great province now is: it has still the remains of the ancient swamps
and forests of reeds. And Imerina is now, what in due time the Sihánaka
will become, a magnificent rice plain, with its rivers embanked and
bridged, with smiling villages on every side, feeding myriads of
Christian people, living in peace.
Ambohitromby is a good village of ninety houses, on a round hill: with
abundance of geese and fowls; and having large herds of cattle in its
neighbourhood. We had a most pleasant meeting with its people. The
little chapel was crowded and many present were Sihánaka. Again we
examined all the scholars, and Mr. Sibree gave the people an address. We
were objects of great curiosity to them all, but especially to the
women, who had probably never seen an Englishman before.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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