We saw our kind friend the governor once more on Monday morning; and
having said farewell to him and his family, at nine o’clock we continued
our journey to the north. After taking a few observations, we noticed
with interest that the lofty hill one mile north of the town is
volcanic: it is part of an old crater: large portions of one side have
been broken away; but abundance of lava is strewn on and around it over
a wide space. This is the only specimen of volcanic action we have found
in all the district. The line of that action lies in general farther
west. And the nearest volcanic hills are on the north-west shoulder of
the island, in the island of Nosibe and the great hills opposite to it
on the mainland.
Bounding the volcano to the eastward, we came into the level bay between
the main hills and the promontory outside. We passed four small
villages, crossed a stream running south by which the western hills and
this level are drained, and close to a spur of the promontory, came to a
large village, Móraráno, with seventy houses, and a little neighbour,
Marafotsy, with thirty more. We next climbed the promontory itself,
which was to be our road for many miles: and from a high point on the
ridge had a beautiful view of the district. On another lofty hill,
having a single thorn tree, we found an excellent station, which we
named One Tree Hill. We had long since left all population behind. We
saw not a house for several hours. Indeed we saw neither house nor
people from Móraráno to our resting-place. The fact is very significant,
and shows the two directions from a common point in which the province
has been peopled. Our men and ourselves took the refreshment we had
brought with us on the hill-side; and then pressed forward to our
destination. We descended into the swamp once more, crossed two of its
north-western arms; then rounded the corner of the province, kept under
its northern hills, over a grassy plain, full of cattle; and at four
o’clock reached the village of Ambóhijánaháry.
It was the poorest place we had yet seen, and looked dirty and unkempt
in every way. They told us it had recently been burned down: a great
calamity in a country and to a people where the accumulation of capital
goes on so slowly. The calamity alas! is of frequent occurrence in these
country towns and is natural. The houses are built of wood and reeds,
and are thatched with leaves or straw. The kitchen fire inside and the
hot sun without dry up every particle of moisture from these substances
and turn them into huge tinder-boxes: while the people are extremely
careless about fire. As Earl Russell justly said about the cities of
Japan: “If people build their cities of bamboos and brown paper, can
they wonder if they are burned down?”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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