The good people offered us rather a damp welcome: and it was evident
that in general intelligence they were somewhat behind the age. The
elder who was their spokesman, after inquiring about the health of the
Queen, and the officers in the Capital; and gradually localising his
interest in the health of the Governor at Ambátondrazáka, and the
Lieut.-Governor at Ampárafáravóla, concluded by asking how the gun was,
which guards the stockade of the latter town. This gun is a little thing
on large wheels, a one-pounder, cast by M. Laborde in former days in the
factory at Mantasoa. The Malagasy are still in that early stage of
social intelligence, which believes strongly in guns, and rather
overlooks the importance of having brave hearts to manage them. In
former days, in these formal interviews with strangers or with
Government officers, the people frequently inquired after the guns. This
was the only occasion, however, on which the inquiry was addressed to
ourselves. I am afraid that the general depression seriously interfered
with the reply of our friend Mr. Sibree. The dignity and fulness, with
which he usually dwelt upon the affairs of the kingdom and the health of
the authorities, and the flowery elegance with which he would describe
the purpose of our visit, entirely failed him here. His reply was brief
and guarded; and the gun he passed over in total silence.
We were anxious to cross the Alaotra lake this afternoon, so as to reach
Ambátondrazáka to-morrow evening and hold a service with the people. We
inquired therefore eagerly after the canoes which were necessary. There
was an evident reluctance about the people, which we could not
understand; but with which our bearers sided: all were anxious that we
should stay for the night. However we got them together and went down to
the water. Not a boat was visible: so we spent an hour on the shore,
admiring the loveliness of the view before us. Meanwhile the east wind
blew strong over the lake, as it usually does in the afternoon; the
lumpy water, in solid waves, came tumbling in at our feet: and the
conviction grew that, with shallow, cranky canoes, laden with baggage
and more than fifty human lives, the passage across the lake in such a
wind and sea, was utterly unsafe. The people knew the fact well: the
proper time to cross is the early morning before the wind rises: but why
had they not the moral courage to tell us plainly?
The mists had disappeared; the afternoon was bright; and the entire
province in all its strangeness lay before us. We took a few
observations, which proved to be of unusual value, and quietly settled
down for the night in Ambohitsára. The chapel was a poor place to stay
in; it was indeed “an airy habitation and a name.” But the tents
provided sleeping quarters, and we bore the reeking atmosphere and the
cold winds as we best could.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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