Four miles up the stream of the Betsiboka and on its eastern bank is the
flourishing town of AMPARIHIBE “the town of the big lakes.” We could see
it plainly from our camp, standing out prominently on its clay hill. Mr.
Jukes had paid it a visit by land and told us about its people. The town
is well built: its people are unusually intelligent and amiable. On
Sunday afternoon when he arrived, they gave him a most hearty reception.
This morning at the monthly missionary meeting, five hundred people were
present. He gave them our salutations and preached to them; and then for
two hours, answered their questions about the Word of God. He found them
most anxious to learn, most anxious to do right. The service concluded,
they all walked down to the river with him and said good-bye. They
loaded him with presents, and sent us most kind messages. They expressed
the deepest regret that they had not met us: and they begged Mr. Jukes
on his return to spend a Sunday with them.
We were away early on Tuesday, and found the river broader, but winding
and somewhat more shallow. The banks were beautiful with their light
green: and here and there the trees were large. But nothing struck us
like the crocodiles. They were more numerous than ever. We seemed never
to lose sight of them: here there was a group of five, there of eight,
six and ten. Sometimes they rose to twenty: and on one occasion on a
broad spit of sand, we found no less than forty sleeping in the sun.
When we took to counting this was the result: in the first hour we
counted a hundred and five; in the next half hour, we saw one hundred
and two. During the four days of our river trip, we must have seen not
less than sixteen hundred crocodiles: indeed my opinion is that the
number rose to two thousand. Some were babies, from twelve to eighteen
inches long: others were strong and active; a few were old, of enormous
size and very sluggish. The skins of the last were course and rough; and
the studs and knobs along the back stood out prominently. Their colour
was a brown yellow. I could not detect among them the _gayál_ or
fish-alligator, so common in the Ganges; they all seemed to belong to
the _magars_ or true crocodiles. The natives of the district told us
that the river swarms with fish, which the crocodiles eat; they lie in
wait to seize the cattle, when they come down to drink; and now and then
some poor Sakaláve, crossing the river, half tipsy, in a frail canoe,
falls into the water and is never seen again. A crocodile moves slowly
on land, with his short legs and heavy tail: but once in the water, he
is master, and his tail is an engine of great power.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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