Next day we came early to the end of the valley, which is a cul de sac:
and saw in it and in the hills to the east the sources of the Ranofotsy.
To the west of the terminating hill is a most noble boulder standing
alone on the mountain side, called Vato-ávo, “high rock.” Mr. Cameron
and I climbed it and found that we had unwittingly secured a most
important station for the survey of the country. Both Fianáran and
Ambohimandroso were visible: it is the only point in the line of route
from which both can be seen at once. We saw at our feet on the south the
great rice basin of Ambohimandroso, studded with hamlets perched on the
red clay hills. East and west were enormous gneiss mountains: while far
to the south was the lofty granite ridge of Kipaséha, its sharp saw-like
crest standing clear against the sky. Near to us was the Betsileo
village of Ivátoavo, through which we were to pass, and in which the
houses are built in and amongst a mass of gigantic boulders, with a
thick cactus hedge as their protection. As we passed, the women all came
out to look at us. We also looked at them; for their hair was fastened
up into a number of flat buttons, which looked like a supply of black
penny-pieces hanging about their ears. We reached our destination at
four o’clock.
AMBOHIMANDROSO is an important town. It is situated on a round clay
hill: the Hova fort and governor’s house being as usual on the crest,
3260 feet above the sea. The houses are three hundred in number; and the
total population must be fifteen hundred. Most of the houses, according
to the usual Betsileo fashion, are built of wood. The posts are strong
and square, the walls are of thick boards fixed upright: and the roof,
as in Imerina, has a high pitch. It is formed of strong timbers and is
thatched with leaves or reeds. The windows of Betsileo houses are small:
the door also is small and the door-sill is high above the ground: a
post therefore is provided for the paterfamilias and his belongings, on
which each carefully stands before he doubles himself up and makes his
way through the opening. It is worth noting that in Malagasy the same
word is used for door and window; both being constructed in the same
fashion and in old houses differing little from one another. The houses
of the garrison, of the governor and his officers, follow the fashion of
Imerina; they have large doors; are strongly made; and their sides are
neatly panneled. But as elsewhere they lack finish; and but little
provision is made for privacy. Not a single house we saw had a glass
window in it, to provide light, when rain and wind compel the owner to
close his wooden shutters. The newest houses outside the fort are being
made of clay. The town has on the south other lofty hills: but as in
Ankay and Menabe, the sandy parts of these hills have worked into deep
hollows which at a distance look like scars and sores upon the
hill-side.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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