Ambohimanga is a royal city; it holds high rank in the kingdom; and
indeed is always associated with Antananárivo in public proclamations.
It was one of the twelve great cities of former days; and held almost
the highest position among them. It is a favourite royal residence. The
great defender of the idols, Queen Ránaválona, is buried here; and it is
probably far more from that fact, and from her known enmity to
Europeans, supposed to subsist still, that they are not admitted into
the city. The Malagasy hold far more literally than we do the idea that
if English missionaries were allowed to preach on the top of the
Ambohimanga hill, the old Queen would “turn in her grave!” The present
Queen twice visited Ambohimanga during our stay in the island: she was
there at Christmas, when we reached the place: and every day she would
sit out on the level rock at the summit of the hill, while the scarlet
umbrella indicated to her people that their sovereign was “eating the
air.” Ambohimanga contains probably five thousand people. The ruling
tribe of the place are termed _Tsi-máha-fótsy_, “those who do not grow
white” with fear; “the bold and true, in bonnet blue, who fear and
falsehood never knew.” They are bold and brave, but they are rough in
manners and rude in speech. They rather pride themselves upon giving to
every one, be it their sovereign or their missionary, a bit of their
mind. And they have yet to learn that rudeness is no ornament to
bravery, whether in Gaul, Goth or Northman; and that it is possible to
wear a velvet glove over an iron hand.
There are three Christian Churches in Ambohimanga: and excellent schools
both for boys and girls, conducted by Mr. and Mrs. Sibree. There are
numerous other churches in populous villages in the immediate
neighbourhood: churches out in the Imérina plain among the rice fields,
and churches all along the roots of Andringtra: churches in a great
valley to the northward, enclosed by noble granite hills, the Anátivólo;
and a cluster of churches five miles to the eastward on the edge of the
barren moors. As in the case of Vónizóngo, so with Ambohimanga and its
district, we felt what a noble sphere of effort it constitutes: and
admired the energy and devotion with which our friends in these country
districts have accepted their isolated position for the usefulness which
it secures. We were debarred from the pleasure of worshipping with the
city congregations; because they assembled around the Queen, at the top
of the hill and within the city gates, which no European, English or
French may pass. But we visited one or two of the district churches a
short distance away; we saw several of the Ambohimanga Christians, and
among them the sturdy pastor Rainikoto, whose father was priest of the
great idol, who guarded this portion of the country.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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