Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. ShermanByers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
History
Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. Sherman
Byers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
Europe -- Description and travel
Frank Duveneck (later widely known) had a large class of devoted
students, who were also his followers in a style of painting peculiar
to himself. There was a strong belief that he was a man of genius,
but he spent much time teaching, when he ought to have been painting.
Duveneck’s students followed him later to Florence, where I saw them
again.
Chase was also at Munich at this time. I can imagine no city more
desirable for a student of art. The social atmosphere breathes of
art; the galleries, of course, are unsurpassed. There are plenty of
teachers--and models are plenty, and all very cheap.
I was introduced to Carl Piloty, head of the Academy of Arts. It was on
the street a friend and I met him. The day was cold, the wind blowing.
There could be little conversation. He wore a big paletot wrapped about
him, and his face and head were so covered that I could not tell
what he looked like. Saw him the same evening on the platform in the
academy, posing models for the students. There was great enthusiasm for
him.
Like most strangers, we visited the famous breweries, and at the “Hof
Brauerei” waded around over the wet, stone floors and helped ourselves
to beer, as was the custom. The place was full of loud-talking people,
with many soldiers among them, some sitting at tables with schooners of
beer before them, others carrying their beer glasses about with them as
they gesticulated together in groups. A band played all the time. It
was to me a wet, noisy, half-lighted, disagreeable place; but it was
“the thing” to go there and help yourself to the world-renowned beer.
This brewery, too, is a great place, where one can see German types of
many curious kinds, and know what German beer-drinking really is. As we
came out into the court, we were near being drowned by some careless
employee’s turning loose several barrels of dirty water, from a spout
over the doorway. Some soldiers in the vicinity laughed at the speed
with which we escaped the flood of beer and water.
Out in the street we noticed a not uncommon Munich sight. It was a
little parade of University students in open carriages. They wore
their corps uniforms of high boots, jaunty caps, and ribbon across the
breast. Some of them held aloft a schooner of beer. The front seat,
or the place of honor, in each carriage was occupied by a stately
bull-dog, arrayed in ribbons and brass collar.
The great bronze foundry was a place that entertained us greatly. The
method of casting statues and monuments was explained to us, and the
copies of noted American figures they had cast at different times, now
in the exhibition room, made us feel very proud.
It was a group of great men who long ago won for our country the
respect of the world. There is not a spot in America, or elsewhere,
where one can see more of American genius represented in one room than
is seen here in the museum of this foundry.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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