Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. ShermanByers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
History
Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. Sherman
Byers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
Europe -- Description and travel
Very shortly we were in the midst of what in earlier times was only a
vast forest, dangerous for travelers to enter. Even now, away from the
old towns and villages, the clean, white highway winds among forests of
pine trees whose resinous odor is delightful to the senses. The woods
are full of game, and at rare intervals we see a fox.
Parts of these vast woods are owned by rich landlords who hold them as
“game preserves,” and who lease them out to lovers of the hunt in the
cities of Switzerland and Germany.
Many a delightful and exciting time have I had with my friends, the
Witts or the Schwarzenbachs, hunting foxes and deer in those same Black
Forest woods.
Usually we came with our guns on the train, to the hamlet of Singen.
The gamekeeper would meet us at the station, and the next morning he
had a dozen peasants beating the bush for us, while we stood like
sentinels, at obscure hidden pathways in the woods, waiting to fire on
the fleeing game. Those who could shoot at all, had good luck always.
At noon, servants would bring baskets of lunch, including good wine,
from the village to us. A rousing fire was made of brushwood, the
slaughtered hares, deer, pheasants and foxes were put in piles to look
at, and then a picnic was enjoyed such as only hunters with appetites
dream of. There was more chasing again in the afternoon. Often a friend
who owned an old-time castle on the hills near by took us home with
him, when a night was made of it--such a night as must have made some
of his ancestors (whose bones lay under the floor at our feet, in the
big hall) wish themselves alive again.
Our friends took us from Stein to Hohentwyl, one of the greatest castle
ruins in the world. It must have been an imposing sight in the Middle
Ages. It sits like a high and isolated island on the level land in the
Duchy of Baden. Yet it belongs to another kingdom (Würtemberg). Once,
at the close of a war, the conqueror left it to the conquered, just for
sweet honor’s sake, and for the brave fighting of its defenders.
One wonders now how the princes and peasants of these valleys were rich
enough to build such stupendous affairs. The peasants are poor here,
now. What were they in the Middle Ages, with a baron and his castle
sitting on every hill?
This particular castle, however, dating from the ninth century, was
built and owned by rich German lords. Once it was the home of the
beautiful Duchess Hadwig, the heroine of “Ekkehard,” that most
beautiful of German novels.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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