Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. ShermanByers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
History
Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. Sherman
Byers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
Europe -- Description and travel
“MY DEAR MR. BYERS:--We arrived here safely last night. _Of
course_, the railways did not connect as you said they would, and
_of course_, we did not go where you promised we should, but we
got to Düsseldorf within twelve hours of the schedule time set
and are thankful. Only let me beg you to post yourself a little
on Swiss railroads before you travel _yourself_. Your knowledge
does well enough for a guide to old experienced travelers _like
us_!!! but it won’t do for a simple, guileless, believing nature
like your own. And don’t let the landlord of the Chateau ‘Laufen’
cook up a route for you.
“Our ride through the Black Forest was a delicious revelation.
I should say it was an overture to Switzerland, had I entered
Switzerland from its borders, but coming _from_ Switzerland,
I could not but think it was really _finer_ than the Alps in
everything that makes the picturesque, and that Switzerland
would have been a disappointment afterwards. It was very like
the California ‘foothills’ in the mountain ranges, and the long
dashes of red soil and red road--so unlike the glare and dazzle
of the white Swiss turnpikes--were very effective. I wanted much
to stop at Freiberg, still more at a certain ruined castle and
‘pension’ called Hombeck, which was as picturesque as Castle
Laufen, minus the noise of ‘factory wheels and fulling mills’
from these awful rapids. Heidelberg was a sensation, with its
castle that quite dwarfs the Rhine River (as all these things do
by comparison when one travels) and we could have stayed here two
or three days and enjoyed ourselves.
“The weather has changed back to the old wet season that we
thought we had left behind us when we turned our faces Southward.
It is dull and rainy. Nevertheless as soon as I get some work off
my hands that has accumulated here I shall try the seaside for my
hoped-for rehabilitation.
“My cousin sends her regards. I suppose she will write or
has written to Mrs. Byers. I hope you will not give up your
Rhine trip (with a suitable guide) and that we may see you in
Düsseldorf soon.
“With my best regards to Mrs. Byers,
“Very truly yours,
BRET HARTE.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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