Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. ShermanByers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
History
Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. Sherman
Byers, S. H. M. (Samuel Hawkins Marshall)
Europe -- Description and travel
_January, 1882._--The lake and the mountains and the white city do not
seem so beautiful to us to-day, for the little girl who loved them most
of all, lies in the next room covered with flowers.
[Illustration: Juliet’s Tomb, Verona.]
* * * * *
All was changed to us this past summer. In October we made a fourth
trip to Italy; this time to the lake regions at the foot of the Alps.
There is something about life in Northern Italy that seems to make
a stay there almost more desirable than in other places in the world.
The scenery is still Alpine, but it is the Alps with perpetual sunshine
on them, and warm laughing lakes about them. I think the peasants
more picturesque here than elsewhere. They carry red umbrellas, and
the peasant women wear short skirts, showing bright stockings of red
or white or blue. The low, white wooden sandals, with the red leather
band over the instep, worn by the women, are very pretty, too. Only
one wonders how they keep them on their feet. With every step the
sandals go click, clack, up and down, at the heels. The headgear of
the girls is a bit of black lace thrown over the head and hanging down
behind. The whole outfit, with the pretty black eyes of the girls, the
bright faces, and the merry demeanor, make one think that here, in the
sunshine of North Italy, is a happy peasantry. The men also wear bright
colors; the poorest has at least a cravat of blue and a red band on his
roguish soft felt hat.
The soft Italian language, and the singers with their guitars in the
moonlight by the lakes, add to the real romance of the scene.
The people of the lake regions are rather poor, spite of the rich
productiveness of the soil. There are too many of them, and too many
rocky heights, and mountains and lakes. The little stone-built villages
cling to some of these heights like crow nests on tree tops, but
somewhere, near to every height, on some spot of land beautiful as
Eden, we see the gardens and villas of the rich. These are the summer
homes of the aristocrats of Milan and cities farther south.
Villa Carlotta on Lake Como, sitting among the lemon trees, its gardens
washed by the blue waters, its halls and salons filled with the works
of genius, could tempt one to want to live there always.
And Villa Giulia, on that fair promontory running out into Lake Lecco
at Bellagio, seen of a summer evening with the deep blue waters on
either side, the snow white Alps in front of it, and groves of citron
and boxwood and lemon behind it, wakes the feeling in one that here
indeed is the fairest scene of all; here one could be happy.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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